Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The issue with Japanese tyres is that although they may be exactly the same as a tyre sold here in Australia they will not have the DOT standard mark on the sidewall in most cases and that is what they look for to know they are suitable for Australian standards.

Personally I have no trouble driving with Japanese tyres but the laws are that you must have DOT approved tyres as well as meeting the minimum load requirements and being of correct size for you car. There are smart people at the registration authorities and police officers around who will check for DOT markings and others who simply don't know or don't care, so if you choose to use tyres without the DOT marking then just be aware that it's not really legal and you may get pulled up for it if you are unlucky.

The only other reason (i've been told) is to do with the length of time the car may have been sitting still for - Tires go hard and turn brittle if they are left in the same position for a long period of time, drive on them after this period and you'll be risking a tire blow out.

....Wouldn't want that happening above 100km/h now would we?

For the record, I drive around on Japanese tires because they were brand new when it came off the boat, I couldn't justify spending up on new rubber when there wasn't any point to chucking out the current tires.

The only other reason (i've been told) is to do with the length of time the car may have been sitting still for - Tires go hard and turn brittle if they are left in the same position for a long period of time, drive on them after this period and you'll be risking a tire blow out.

....Wouldn't want that happening above 100km/h now would we?

For the record, I drive around on Japanese tires because they were brand new when it came off the boat, I couldn't justify spending up on new rubber when there wasn't any point to chucking out the current tires.

didn't the compliance shop replace the tires? or maybe they did replaced the tires and you're keeping them in storage for now?

  • 1 year later...
I know that for compliance and rego a fresh import needs new Australian tyres. What if a dealer did this then put back the japanese tyres and tried to sell the car?

Been done down at Drummoyne; but they're not the only ones.

  • 6 months later...

soooooooooooo is it possible to KEEP your imported tyres? sorry for epic thread bump...

but are we as customers allowed to keep the japanese / non DOT approved tyres? technically they're *our* property... right???

=/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...