Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all. I am wanting to get more into the track n drift scene in the near future and i am trying to decide on what car i should be looking at. I am prob goin to use the car as my daily most of the time, then take it to track days etc for a bit of fun.

I have been looking at the following cars to use.

- skyline r32 2ltr GTST

- skyline r33 2.5 ltr GTST

- silvia SR20 DET

- 180sx SR20 DET

- 200sx SR20 DET

The car of choice needs to be reasonably fuel efficient etc. I would like a 4cyl car but i do like the 6cyl's charm :P I am just curious to know if a r32 gtst would be much more fuel hungry than a SR 20 engine? Which would give me better power output for drift or track stuff?

The car will need to be registered and i will drive it around untill it gets canned then prob trailer it anyways to track days.

Is it a stupid idea trying to combine a street car and track car. I would prefer it to be registered tho cos it will be far more use to me.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212425-what-to-buy-as-a-dailytrack-car/
Share on other sites

They are all pretty good cars to use as the type of platform you require, just got to look worldwide to see that, my R32 gtst gets 550+ k's per tank if I'm not giving it some, love the balance of it too, am about to do suspension, then power-up-cant wait hahahahahahahahaha(maniacal laughter)

Either:

* Silvia with SR20DET. Lightest of the bunch.

* R33 with RB25DET. Biggest engine.

What you choose depends on what you can afford and your driving style. The R33 has a longer wheelbase and should therefore be more stable in the high speed stuff, but the S13 will be more nimble. Finding performance mods for any other cars should be easy as they're all popular.

S13 should be cheaper to maintain, though.

I'd also go for s13. You can go pretty fast in them if you spend a bit of time on the handling side.

The probelm is that it's hard to have a daily/track hack.

Mine is basically a registered track car these days. I drive to the track, flog it, and either drive or limp home depending on the damage :P I would not want to drive my daily transport on a track, you couldn't push for times as you'd be scared to damage it.

It would have to be between the s14 and 33 ....

The SR and RB25 are good bases for bolt on modifictions and will hold 250kw somewhat reliably.. the 25 has the cubes to go a bit further but the s14 is lighter..

Edited by Tomek

my r33 takes around 12L/100km driving normally which is pretty good. you can also pick one up for really cheap as theres just so many of them for sale. the fact that its newer then the s13 and r32 also give you something to consider. plus the rb25 is just a damm good engine that would probably outlast the sr20 and the rb20

Hmm yeah i would like an R33 but only looking at spending maybe 10k at the most on a car. I was thinking maybe of getting a R32 cos they would be a bit cheaper etc. I also would hate to smash up a good car that has good paint etc. So i thought older car would be ok cos it will have dints etc already. I guess if i have an older skyline i can always build the motor up better once it F!*ks up.

track use of a daily requires the right sort of backup. Money (to replace worn things & fix broken things). Good facitities in your shed for getting things done before the weekend is over.

If you need the car to drive during the week then either a backup bunky car or the above things.

It's going to cost you to enjoy the track often so why not a fairly stock GTR? in for a penny in for a pound.

Hang on a minute...$10k?

Skylines are out for you mate. Maybe an R31.

You can't afford it right now I'm afraid if $10k is your budget.

My thoughts are maybe buy yourself an unlicenced bunky , a car trailer and some tools/equipment and gradually do it up. Or just invest your money , grow it and then buy someone elses track car misery and save time and money to get started.

Hmm i seen quite a few r32's for sale for less than 10k and many 180sx's. I could afford a more expensive car but i dont really want one thats in the best body condition etc. I not worried bout that side of it. I hope to get something cheapish then build it up a bit into a toy for the track. I already got a large amount of tools to fix stuff etc. I would not be so worried about damaging it and not having it available for the next wk as i have my R33 to use and my current daily driver and my motorbike. So i should be right if something happened.

I just looking for a good base to use and build on. I will be able to afford engine rebuild etc if something happened. Was just trying to find a shit box for under 10k.

RB20DET is probably cheaper second hand than SR20DET, RB25DET if something does go wrong with the engine.

R33 chassis supposedly has the better front suspension setup with R32 second and S13, S14, S15 last.

Also R33 has the 296mm R32 GTR style front rotors vs 280mm on R32, 280mm on S13??, S14, S15.

R33 has a stronger gearbox and drivetrain than R32 or S13, S14, S15.

Looking at the above, R33 chassis without the RB25DET motor for under 10K and fit the lighter

SR20DET or cheaper RB20DET. Or a single turbo RB26DET (solid cams) with around 400hp.

Edited by SKYPER

dude buy the blue cefiro? save up another 2 grand and it's yours!

check the cefiro section it's for sale in there, you have a choice of 9grand to buy as a pure track car or 12 grand to have it complied and road rego'd

GREAT way to get a wicked sick hot looking track / daily

but no offence but you're pipe dreaming at have 10K for a track AND daily...

Hey. Thx for the feedback. I am not entirely sure what way i am going to go yet. I can save for longer and get something more expensive etc but i just dont like the idea of smashing up a nice 10K + car. Meh i will prob get over that problem soon enough. I also have been thinking of the idea of getting a rolling shell and putting a rebuilt motor into it etc. All tho i guess once i muck around getting everything done to it i would prob have paid more anyways?

Maybe i should just sit tight and save then see where things go.

Thanks all

you only smash it up if youre a bad driver :yes:

He He yeah i am reasonably good at driving. Used to have paddock bombs etc so used to sliding round etc. I know for sure that i am a hell of alot better driver than most of the dumbasses out on our roads. I nearly get into an accident every month due to some dickhead that can't drive for shit. LOL there is one roadabout near my place that i nearly been cleaned up at about 5 times. Always when i am turning right at the road about i get people that don't look or give way. Last incident was only 2 wks ago when this guy come racing towards the roadabout in his 4WD towing a tandem trailer. I seen him comming as i turned right and could see he goin fairly fast. Sure enough he locked it up comming into the roadabout. I just stopped in the roadabout and waited for him to slide to a stop before continuing to turn right. I dunno what he was thinking. Dumbshit.

Well thats just one of my many stories. I am sure you all have some.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...