Good Quality Hi-flowz

[SmashBoxx]

looking for a place preferably east that does good quality hi-flows and a rough price..

any help appreciated.

cheerz Ryan

[Al]

Try ATP - Advanced Turbo Performance - Kyp.

Phone 03 9569 4764 Dandenong Rd Murrumbeena

Kyp, at ATP, has done many turbos for many people and w/shops: Including Racepace and EAS Performance

He knows his stuff, but his personality is very blunt

[SmashBoxx]

does anyone know the rough price for hi flowing??

i ehard somewhere around $1500?

[LEANBAC]

Try ATP - Advanced Turbo Performance - Kyp.

Phone 03 9569 4764 Dandenong Rd Murrumbeena

Kyp, at ATP, has done many turbos for many people and w/shops: Including Racepace and EAS Performance

He knows his stuff, but his personality is very blunt

yea try ATP they hi flowed my turbos on my gtr

[stolen_s15]

Try ATP - Advanced Turbo Performance - Kyp.

Phone 03 9569 4764 Dandenong Rd Murrumbeena

Kyp, at ATP, has done many turbos for many people and w/shops: Including Racepace and EAS Performance

He knows his stuff, but his personality is very blunt

I'm running an ATP stage 3 hi-flow on my 33 atm, which I highly recomend. But make sure you bargain him on the price as his quotes are on the expensive side. Also as al alluded to, he comes across as a total prick!! But he will make you a good end product.

[DogKnight]

And slightly off topic.

With the process of hi-flowing. Can it be done to any turbo's, including stock? What type of difference can you expect? Is it cheaper to replace the turbo all together or is high flowing a cheaper option bang for buck? Does anything else need to be changed?

I really dont know alot about it so any information would be good.

[Ant97GTR]

+1 for ATP as well

With the process of hi-flowing. Can it be done to any turbo's, including stock? What type of difference can you expect? Is it cheaper to replace the turbo all together or is high flowing a cheaper option bang for buck? Does anything else need to be changed?

I really dont know alot about it so any information would be good.

DK...most of the time it is done on stock turbos as it replaces the ceramic wheel with a steel item and allows you to run more boost safely. With my old gtst I went from 145rwkw to a safe 210rwkw but then I added other items as well. As for anything else that might need to be changed, it will depend on how much power you want...for my 200+ I added FMI, computer, ported exhaust manifold, fuel pump and reg, air filter and exhaust.

[paulr33]

they take your current turbo (working or not) and pull it apart

- replace bearing kit

- replace seals

- replace compressor and exhaust wheel with new higher flowing units

- bore out the exhaust snout (make it a larger hole)

- rebalance the unit when reassembled

so you essentially end up with new turbo. the key note here is that the only retained std parts is the housing and compressor cover.

everything else is replaced with new higher flowing items. the housing itself doesn't wear out, so its fine to keep and reuse.

the housing is the cast iron rear exhaust part and the compressor cover is the shiny bubble front part on the turbocharger.

the seals, bearings etc are replaced with new spec items so they are spot on. you can make more power on a highflow

as the exhaust snout is bored and replaced with a larger exhaust wheel (more gas flow drive) and the compressor wheel is upgraded.

more exhaust drive, means you can drive the compressor faster, and a new compressor item means extra airflow (usually)

be sure to note the main cost differences between hiflow turbochargers is the bearing styles used.

ie: a journal bearing or bush bearing highflow will be cheaper than a ball bearing hiflow unit.

the standard turbocharger on the R33 GTST is a hitachi unit (usually) and its

- oil cooled

- water cooled

- ball bearing

youll notice the price is the same for a "hiflow" of your current unit if the current unit works or doesnt

this is because they chuck out all the parts that "work" or "dont work" and replace them anywany.

ie; you dont get $500 of a highflow if your current turbocharger works fine

[DogKnight]

Thanks for all the info guys, really helpful.

Obviously some decent power gains with the other mods. I already have an aftermarket exhaust but would been a dump pipe which I assume would be necessary to get the full benefit of this. Other than that I would probably only want to look at a FMIC and raising the boost a bit more. Worthwhile or not? And legally, all okay? Even if not legal I assume it would be very hard to tell.

[paulr33]

the typical hiflowed GTST is usually

- fuel pump

- boost controller

- stand alone ECU

- heavy duty clutch

- full turbo back exhaust 3"

- fmic

most make around 250rwkw and should be good for high 12s/low 13 if you can drive with a spot on launch

[SABBAi]

Kyp only does a stage 3 highflow. Don't ask for a stage 1 or 2, they don't exist. The core is a bush bearing centre. The comp covers he uses depends on what he's supplied. Previously, I have seen T3 bush cores, with R33 exhaust housings and VL comp covers labeled as a high flown R33 turbo. I beleive that the comp wheel had the same dimensions as the VL comp wheel. It is bigger than the R33 item.

[DogKnight]

the typical hiflowed GTST is usually

- fuel pump

- boost controller

- stand alone ECU

- heavy duty clutch

- full turbo back exhaust 3"

- fmic

most make around 250rwkw and should be good for high 12s/low 13 if you can drive with a spot on launch

- fuel pump

Will need one

- boost controller

Basic boost tap already, would an electronic one be needed?

- stand alone ECU

By stand alone I assume you mean not stock, eg powerfc or similar, in which case will need one

- heavy duty clutch

Got one already

- full turbo back exhaust 3"

Just need the dump pipe to make this happen, was on the plan anyway

- fmic

Was my next step anyway

Sorry for all the questions.

[paulr33]

a bleed valve is ok, when you hiflow the turbocharger you should be able to choose what actuator spring is fitted

the default spring on the GTST manual is 0.50kgcm2 you should change it to a 1 bar or 1kgcm2 spring

and just bleed 1,2 or 3 psi off the bleed valve, this will mean the minimum boost you can run is 1 bar however

an electronic boost controll is not needed if you a have a suitable spring set (ie 1 bar) and the bleed works ok

ie: dont keep the std actuator (at 0.50kgcm2) and try and run 1.3 bar via a bleed valve or boost controller

the valve has to work very hard to maintain pressure between the spring and target boost, so go as close as you can

in regards to ECU there are several options

- remap the std ecu (nistune etc)

- safc piggyback is probably OK

- emanage style piggyback

- stand alone like powerfc

[DogKnight]

a bleed valve is ok, when you hiflow the turbocharger you should be able to choose what actuator spring is fitted

the default spring on the GTST manual is 0.50kgcm2 you should change it to a 1 bar or 1kgcm2 spring

and just bleed 1,2 or 3 psi off the bleed valve, this will mean the minimum boost you can run is 1 bar however

an electronic boost controll is not needed if you a have a suitable spring set (ie 1 bar) and the bleed works ok

ie: dont keep the std actuator (at 0.50kgcm2) and try and run 1.3 bar via a bleed valve or boost controller

the valve has to work very hard to maintain pressure between the spring and target boost, so go as close as you can

in regards to ECU there are several options

- remap the std ecu (nistune etc)

- safc piggyback is probably OK

- emanage style piggyback

- stand alone like powerfc

Damn you know alot about this o.-

The spring ill just take your word for it. I assume any reputable workshop would know what to do.

With the ECU, would rather remap stock to keep it as legal (or seemily so) as possible. Aftermarket ECU's, while probably provide alot more options and tuning abilities, especially if pushing for more power, are usually easily found and illegal, correct?

[paulr33]

yeah a stand alone ecu is much more preferred and will typically give you better results

the powerfc for example can be removed in about 2 minutes and the car will start with the std ecu

so if you get dicked its a 5 minute job to revert it back. some other ecu;s that need wiring changes wont be a 5 minute removal job so be aware

[dezz]

retuning an R33 ECU won't be easy...or cheap

[DogKnight]

Thats fine, in the end as long as its easy removable to return to stock thats the main thing. I just dont want a lot of trouble or cost if I get EPA'd and need to revert things.

[Ant97GTR]

Thats fine, in the end as long as its easy removable to return to stock thats the main thing. I just dont want a lot of trouble or cost if I get EPA'd and need to revert things.

That may or may not have happened to me when I was running the hiflow....all that *might* have happened was change exhaust to stock, unplug ecu and replace with stock ecu. The hi flowed stock turbo looks factory and because my ecu was controlling boost I didn't have to remove any boost control either. With the stock ecu and exhaust the car drove fine off boost.

[Al]

What was stated above is great information, but to get 250rwkw you'll also need injectors.

A hi-flowed turbo has the potential to make 280rwkw, which is more than enough for a very quick street car.

I would recommend against using a 1bar actuator as it doesn't leave you much room to move. A hi-flow turbo is right on it's efficiency range using about 16psi, anything more it doesn't make much more power. When i had one fitted to my car it made [email protected], with cams and porting. So if you fit a 1bar (14.4psi) actuator, you eliminate the option to have a high and low boost setting. Having said that i never had a low boost setting, using this turbo, but my car was never daily driven.

[dave1200]

I think it's worth noting that there are a multitude of combinations and sizes which all get included under the title of a high flow. I know you guys are talking about one workshop's particular stage 3 high flow but it's worth pointing out that the combination supplied by them will almost certainly be different to any other workshop. A "high flow" turbo can be as simple as putting a larger exhaust housing on an otherwise untouched turbo. This will net bigger peak hp but will sacrifice midrange. If you decide to have a turbo high flowed, ask exactly what is being done. I would be asking for wheel trims and diameters and run the info past somebody who can make some sense of it. There is no point in taking an Hitachi exhaust housing and bolting a 600hp compressor to it. Sure it might make your desired power levels but wont' be much fun.

The last point is that for any desired power output, a high flowed turbo will almost always be less responsive than an aftermarket turbo with matching wheels that's appropriate for that desired output.