Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can get them almost anywhere basically. Im pretty sure autobarn sell em too. If you are brave enough to drill your own bonnet then you can install them yourself. They usually cost anywhere from 10-20 bux for the normal ones, or you can get the flush ones for around a hundred bucks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212600-bonnet-pins/#findComment-3755884
Share on other sites

flush ones are around the $200 mark. but you have to cut a much bigger hole for the thing to sit flush. whereas the normal ones like i got for $50 from autobaust requires one single hole drilled either side through your bonnet. bonnet pins are illegal but all do the same job if you have installed them correctly.

locate where you want the pins, drill a hole through the radiator support for the pin itself. install pin and mark where you need to drill the holes through your bonnet by marking where the top of the pins hit the bonnet. i drilled from bottom up then once its through top to bottom to make the holes bigger. once thats all done its pretty much done. i've got a carbon fibre bonnet on my car so the lock itself i just used self-tapping screws and screwed the lock onto the bonnet. if you got anyother bonnet you may have to drill first then screw/pop rivots. hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212600-bonnet-pins/#findComment-3755930
Share on other sites

post-43842-1206860408_thumb.jpgget top secret bonnet pins there a bit pricey butb they look sick and there flush

Yeah they look the same as the Aerocatch ones,

heres the link to install the flush type

http://www.aerocatch.com/AeroCatch-Brochure.pdf

i believe from the aerocatch website they sell them in Australia through Revolution Racegear in Mitcham (victoria)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212600-bonnet-pins/#findComment-3756661
Share on other sites

I got me a carbon bonnet for my R32 GT-R. And I have aerocatch pins. It goes to the panelbeaters next week to get all my

goodies fitted and painted so after I get it back I'll post up some pics :yes:

Edited by TezGT-R
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212600-bonnet-pins/#findComment-3763008
Share on other sites

I agree man, dunno if I could either. My mate installed a spoler on his VP, and I nearly screamed when he started drilling holes! So dunno how I go, but I love the look and I'm too stingy to get someone else to do it :/. Give it ago, you probs wont stuff it up, if you do it correctly. Just make sure that u measure twice and only cut once. VERY important one, that one :/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212600-bonnet-pins/#findComment-3765218
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...