Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what would you charge for the rb30 stroker crank and rods?

you mentioned making forgies with it, but me and i notced a few others have gone the N/A path so just wondering if you were making non forged pistons to suit?

are you going to make these reguarly or made to order or just the 1 off batch?

any reason to why your not making this kit with a non forged piston? (not everyone wants to go the forced induction path)

can the kit be bought without the pistons?

whats the height difference between the normal rb30 piston and the piston for the 3.3?

i've been told there are pistons that have a shorter skirt that will suit the rb30de im building, cant remember the part number but what are the chances of them suiting?

do you balance the cranks?

will the 3.3 crank have knife edging or standard counter weights?

Shaun O - around the $6500 - 7000 mark with the AUS dollar at its current rate. It should see 7500 - 8000 plus rpm depending on setup.

Gerg R31 - The reason is that you are the only person who has mentioned it, so Im presuming demand is minimal especially due to the price involved. The other reason is that no one readily and easily makes cast pistons in short runs or one offs. I could easily make you a forged piston for an NA set up though. You would just have to spec the comp ratio you require. The length of the skirt has nothing to do with the comp ratio.

Edited by Spoolup

i just thought you may have designed pistons that were shorter to suit the stroker kit, if the over all height of the pistons dont change i might still be able to get the ones i had in mind, though i know forgies handle heat better

im aiming at around 10.5:1 to 11:1 comp ratio so if you made me a piston the rb25de piston dome with valve releif would be fine with me

plus i work at a machine shop so decking and other machine work and balancing etc is easily done

are you making the kit pistons dome with valve releif? flat top? or dish?

(i know alot of questions but more info may also bring more interest)

Edited by Gerg_R31
im sure that would be ok due to the lower rev range of the 30.

Well the rb26 in thier Z drag car is seeing 10,000 rpm with the tomei pump so i would think rob has something sorted...

Spool, so you 3.4L kits will rev to 7500-8000rpm?

We will have to wait and see - but similar setups with the 3.4L 2JZ ( near identical bore stroke ratio ) have gone 8000 plus easily enough

Well the rb26 in thier Z drag car is seeing 10,000 rpm with the tomei pump so i would think rob has something sorted...

Spool, so you 3.4L kits will rev to 7500-8000rpm?

Well the rb26 in thier Z drag car is seeing 10,000 rpm with the tomei pump so i would think rob has something sorted...

I have never had a RB26 in the 240z, its always been a RB30, stock block, stock crank, RIPS wet sump etc and anyone who says a stock 30 crank won't rev hard or is limited to 7500 etc is talking rubbish

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=nHLfRseF_F4

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=G6qtA0_kQUc

9500-10,000 rpm during burnout

Rob

Edited by R.I.P.S NZ
I have never had a RB26 in the 240z, its always been a RB30, stock block, stock crank, RIPS wet sump etc and anyone who says a stock 30 crank won't rev hard or is limited to 7500 etc is talking rubbish

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=nHLfRseF_F4

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=G6qtA0_kQUc

9500-10,000 rpm during burnout

Rob

Bah you know i mean't. :P

Lol, clam down, its all good :) I was just correcting your 26 comment, nothing else in my post was directed at you.

I'm calm, its you rb30/26 thats the angry one. More nos, bigger injectors, more boost, less tit grabbing at the nats, and do some 7's :P

I'm calm, its you rb30/26 thats the angry one. More nos, bigger injectors, more boost, less tit grabbing at the nats, and do some 7's :happy:

Yes sir!! lol, I'll get all the non car stuff out of the way the night before, lol.

Next meet is this Saturday then another the following Sunday so I'll give it my best shot.

Rob

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...