Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 3.4 should be very interesting, did you stick with 86.5mm bore and what style/shape of rod did you chose?

I presume you've made it so its a drop in kit for a stock block?

Rob

Edited by R.I.P.S NZ
The pistons are 20 thou over so ( 86.5 ), they will also be available in 40 ( at some point ).

The rods are a custom H Beam.

Drop in kit for stock block is the aim :-)

Cool, what is the actual cc rating with the 86.5mm bore?

Rob

pffft. whatervaa......... just anticipating someone thats prepared to spend 6k on a rotating assembly might want oil squirters. not me but im not everyone.

just have a japlish disclaimer, oil of the squirter instalation faliure...

I have never had a RB26 in the 240z, its always been a RB30, stock block, stock crank, RIPS wet sump etc and anyone who says a stock 30 crank won't rev hard or is limited to 7500 etc is talking rubbish

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=nHLfRseF_F4

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=G6qtA0_kQUc

9500-10,000 rpm during burnout

Rob

everytime i see this 'cocaine' car on the strip i get goose bumps - sounds better than a moaning hottie :blink:

to get a comp ratio here is 1 formula i work with

bore x stroke (bore =86.5mm stroke =95mm)

86.5 x 85.5 / 4 =1870.5625

1870.5625 x 3.142 x 95 = 558344.2006

558344.2006 / 1000 = 558.3442

litres

558.3442 x 6 =3350.0652 (the cubic centremetres of the block)

3350.0652 / 1000 = 3.3500

Deck height

i wont be running one but the formular is the same as the bore x stroke formular just replace the stroke with the deck height measurement

Head Gasket

I HAVE NOT REMEMBERED A MEASURED HEAD GASKET THIS IS A ROUGH GUESS

similar 2 the bore x stroke just replace the stroke with the squashed thickness of head gasket and measure the bore of the gasket, or could always CC it with a burette

i.e

87 x 87 / 4 =1892.25

1892.25 x 3.142 x 0.9=5350.9045

5350.9045 / 1000 =5.3509

Head CC

mines 62cc's atm

Piston dish/dome

if i get the kit id run a 12cc dome

add deck height, head gasket, head cc's, piston dish cc's (minues if dome)

0 + 5.3509 + 62 - 12= 55.3509

add the bore x stroke with the above

55.3509 + 558.3442 = 613.6951

devide answer with the above

613.6951 / 55.3509 = 11.08

11.08:1 is the compression ratio id be running

congratulations rob!

and u have this car for sale!? why sell such a beast

I want to get into something lighter, its about 200kg over weight for the Pro Import class I run in but I don't want to strip it out to be a full race car, as it is, it still has glass windows (except doors), steel hatch etc, just needs headlights and wipers back in and its road legal again for someone else.

Rob

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...