Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks Paul we were having the same argument elsewhere lately. for what it is worth CAMS say 0.8bar is stock for a GTR too.

I "heard" that the n1 models ran 1 bar base boost, would love to know if anyone has a nissan document proving it...would be a very happy day for me.

Brandon the actuators open at about 0.8 bar with the restrictor in the lines and about 1bar with the restrictor out. 0.6 bar says you had a blockage in the air line, or dodgy actuator/s

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  jinkhai said:
ur not the one mate i have the same problem either. 0.6 bar maximum is kinda dodgy :)

Thinking back, thats probably because I changed ECU and boost controller right before the tune was done (same day). So technical I never knew what boost I was running before on stock solenoid and ecu. Hahaha. Sorry for my initial post if that confuses anyone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
    • Is it oil smoke or fuel smoke? They smell different.
×
×
  • Create New...