Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i decided to change the gearbox oil through the shifter after reading about it through the old threads. i have taken everything off but now i am stuck. where exactly do i fill it up from here? or do i need to take the shifter out? if so how do i do that?

post-47604-1206858917_thumb.jpg

post-47604-1206858934_thumb.jpg

post-47604-1206858940_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You didn't have to pull those 4 bolts out, you just need to remove the cir-clip holding the shifter in at the bottom where it pivots, and she will slide right out.

I dunno where you got the idea from but whats wrong with filling it from the fill plug on the gear box? If you can get your hands on a little hydraulic pump just shove it in the new oil bottle and pump away until she is full.

Hope you know how much oil to put in, goodluck. :worship:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

either spend $20 on the little pump bottle or $20 on a pair of circlip pliers. I like doing it from the top. It's clean and easy. You always end up with half an arm covered in gear oil if you do it from under the car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 for filling through the shifter hole.

I use a pair of needle nose plyers with the points bent inwards as circlip plyars for all nissans boxes... its lasted me 5 years so far and counting :worship:

provided you know exactly how much to fill the box. you cant go wrong!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't had a good enough look at my GTR but why does the stick go into the transfer case and not the gearbox? Doesn't the transfer case literally transfer drive to the front wheels? From what I can see the transfer case hangs off the driver's side of the gearbox and the stick is perfectly above the gearbox itself like any other rwd car. Just wondering the reasoning?

Cheers,

Matt

i hope you have a 2wd. in 4wd the gear stick goes into the transfer case not gearbox
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey you don't have to beleive me but maybe you should take a closer look. the gear stick goes into the xfer case and actuates the gearbox via a linkage. the transfer case is bolted to the back not the side of the gearbox

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey you don't have to beleive me but maybe you should take a closer look. the gear stick goes into the xfer case and actuates the gearbox via a linkage. the transfer case is bolted to the back not the side of the gearbox

^believe this guy, trust me, i found out the hard way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry didn't mean to be rude, but cool thanks for that. Was just wondering the mechanics of it all, this is the same for all GTRs? Also, does that mean you can fill the transfer case from the stick?

hey you don't have to beleive me but maybe you should take a closer look. the gear stick goes into the xfer case and actuates the gearbox via a linkage. the transfer case is bolted to the back not the side of the gearbox
Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry its been a long week. the xfer case bolts onto the rear of the gearbox, and yes you can fill the xfer case through the shifter on a 4wd. bascially the xfer case has a main shaft to the rear wheels and another for the fromt shaft linked by a big chain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't how much the car makes a difference or whether it is just a question of gearbox and clutch. On mine it's fine. Pull type Nismo coppermix twin (standard, not competition) on the 5 speed in my Stagea. OEM slave cylinder. Bite point is a few cm off the very bottom of the pedal. Clutch pedal all the way down to put in gear, and when heading off at the lights, there's a tiny bit of nothing and then it starts biting. And fully engaged before the pedal is all the way released. There's a bit of play at the top where the pedal does nothing anymore. Are you in Australia @ck_chino? If you are set on using a Nismo slave cylinder I have one new-in-box at home. Ordered it together with the clutch but didn't get it fitted. We can work something out if you want it
    • I am using a pull nismo coppermix twin in an r34 getrag box, had both the standard slave and  then the nismo one. Adjusted pedal to get bite point how I wanted , it is on the higher side, but would fully disengage past half way down.  I also read that the nismo slave won't work but I had no issues with the stroke, might become one later as clutch wears but 2+ years of happy motoring so far.  Take the above as one input only, specially as my setup is a bit unique in that I am using an S15 clutch master , cefiro clutch pedal, custom braided clutch line. Lots of variables at play. 
    • Oh for sure, I'm just recounting my thoughts 😎 I'm not what you've got there to fuzt with.... likely my first idea was on the money -- rebuild or replace connectors. You can get a lot of connector stuff here  -> https://www.rapidcables.com.au/ Didn't look in the boot of mine, because I replaced these when I renewed the pump (plastic of connectors had gone brittle) edit: what I used... https://www.efihardware.com/products/2120/Deutsch-DTM-Connector-Kit-6-Pin ...cheaper... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364900039138
    • In no way was i suggesting it’s your fault mate. The trailer cable has a plug that I removed. I will have a closer look, but I did remove the trailer wiring cable with the tow ball as I don’t need it on my silo. i have replaced the fuel pump already there’s no need to remove the cradle again I can see the wire colours from it in.
×
×
  • Create New...