Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As with f.pumps, inj's, ECU's etc, I would personally only use something proven. Theres a reason the known brands are 300%-600% more exspensive.

Just my boo boo view :)

yeah i get your point and agree but i think brands like turbosmart are way overpriced. i just dont see the value for money. looks like i will have to bight the bullet though and buy a turbosmart one,

thanks

Justin

i just dont see the value for money.

I love a bargain priced car part as much as the next guy, but id rather pay once for something that lasts and doesnt break than pay for a failure and then the top end model part

Im not saying the JJR one is shit. But i am saying the turbosmart one is proven :)

yeah i get your point and agree but i think brands like turbosmart are way overpriced. i just dont see the value for money. looks like i will have to bight the bullet though and buy a turbosmart one,

thanks

Justin

Local merchants of poverty IMO

So much mark up, $1,100 for thier 50mm? Thats %10 less then the HKS GTII

TiAL is US$600'ish for thier 50mm.

Just saying humbug to Turbosmart,

EDITED:

...not saying the JJR one is shit. But i am saying the turbosmart one is proven :)

True, but TiAL is more proven'ed :P

Edited by GeeTR

i think i may just get GCG to bore out my internal wastegate hole....$395 to bore it out from 27mm too 37mm. problem im having is it just isnt flowing enough and im getting massive boost creep because of it. but my main prob with this is the turbo is a new gt3540r IW and why havent garrett done the maths to allow the internal gate to flow enough???? its not as though im only trying to run 10psi... im trying to run 18-19psi through it and still get boost creep at the top of the rev rang as high as 24psi. my tuner surgested going 50mm external but its just too much trouble, and im not sure there will be enough room on my exhaust manifold to weld a external wastegate pipe into the collector area.

thanks

Justin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks.    OH, a quick side question - would you use brake fluid from an opened container even if the lid has been on? Eg, if you have a bottle that you opened last time you flushed, it's been tightly closed, is it still good? 
    • Nice, is there a post with the new 4" dyno curve?
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
×
×
  • Create New...