Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, well my older brother is very interested in gettin a r33 4 door. Have tried to source info for r33 4 door buying and resellin price for Brisbane however its been tough, since there's not alot of 4 doorz being sold. The car he is interested in (private sale) is:

r33 4 door gts-t BLACK

1995 series 2

Stock as a rock with 60,000km's on it currently

car is black in good condition - both body and interior

he intends to sell the car in a year or so when it has approximately 80,000km's on it

Approximately how much should he pay for it? And Will he have trouble sellin it when he does - 4 doorz sell much much slower do they not. Since there's very low demand for them. HOw much do u reckon he could get for it. He doesnt want it to depreciated too much as he has to head back overseas

thanks

regards

bryanlee38

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21279-buyin-r33-4-door-turbo-advice-please/
Share on other sites

Hey,

does he want auto or manual - auto will automatically be at least $2000 cheaper. remember that to only have 60k on clock it's only travelled 8500km a year. It only indicates one thing they are asking more than even for it since no one only drives a skyline 8500km a year.

He's better off paying $20k to $24k for one (with genuine 80k) and after a year he can wind back the clock himself instead of letting someone else wind it back for him.

4 Doorz

<><

I thought the 4 door models were way cheaper than your standard coupe. I remeber seeing one a little while ago at one of the yards at Underwood, it was a 4 door R33 GTSt Auto totally stock in great condition with about 75000K on the clock and they were asking $14500 for it.

I even took it for a drive and it was straight as, it was obviously used as a family car in Japan

I seriously thought about buying it for a second car, just to absolutely thrash the hell out of it.

4 door skylines is an option if insurance and price is too high.If insurance is not a drama i would be looking at buying a coupe.I dont think he will have problems selling it again but resale price may be an issue.I was lucky and picked my coupe up for 15.It has 18"'s,exhaust and it had been lowered and the paint was pretty good.I looked around for a while but eventually one popped up.As for km's i think it it hard to judge an import on km's.One way to check id to look at the bolt on the crankangle sensor located on the front of the motor(silver disc).It has a silver sticker that goes accross one of the bolts.When the timing belt is done this sticker is torn off so check that out.

Also check out the boot as many r33 leak through the tail lights.

Other things to check for are general rust and paint work imperfections.these are the things i would look for in a car as these are what cost the most and can be frustrating saving for

1)wheels

2)exhaust

3)lowered

Any skyline with these will be a head turner and will be easy to sell again.

theres a r33 4 door up here on the coast for $13k, but its in fairly rough condition, (a bargain I reckon)(auto, 2.5 turbo), I paid around $25k for my impul, which was in perfect nick and had all the goodies etc, but I saw one advertised at autoforce for around 23K, standard, with a body kit,???

so I dont know what is going on and price for 4 door r33 seems to vary alot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...