Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

F40s and F50s look the same, and are the same. Its just that the piston size is different on the leading pistons. I have never heard of the trailing pitson being anything other then 44mm

i agree the trailing piston is 44mm but there is variation in the leading piston sizes. AU and BA Falcons with the F50 kit have different piston sizes to change the pedal travel.

as djr said the F40s and Nissan Brembos are the same piston size so there should be no change in pedal travel. there's about a 10% piston area increase between the Nissan Brembos and the F50s with 40x44, which should make a noticeable difference.

Edited by Scooby
i agree the trailing piston is 44mm but there is variation in the leading piston sizes. AU and BA Falcons with the F50 kit have different piston sizes to change the pedal travel.

as djr said the F40s and Nissan Brembos are the same piston size so there should be no change in pedal travel. there's about a 10% piston area increase between the Nissan Brembos and the F50s with 40x44, which should make a noticeable difference.

Should ? :D

Doubt it. The volumetric (big words!) difference between the two callipers is:5550 vs 5309. ie 5%. Even less when you take into account the rears. Less still when you take into account all the other slop in the system eg fire wall deflection, pedal deflection, expanding hoses.....

Doubt it. The volumetric (big words!) difference between the two callipers is:5550 vs 5309. ie 5%. Even less when you take into account the rears. Less still when you take into account all the other slop in the system eg fire wall deflection, pedal deflection, expanding hoses.....

Hi Roy, yes I reckon it should. Or are you emphasising it WOULD? Anyway it's a moot point as DJR is right, it's 5% or less difference. So much for my calcs.

DJR not sure why the rears factor into diminishing the difference though, if they stay the same? It's still an increase in volume. As for firewall flex etc it's there anyway so the only variable is the volume change.

Do either of you know where I can get a seal kit locally for less than the $400 ;) or so I was quoted by a Brembo agent today?

Cheers

Hi Roy, yes I reckon it should. Or are you emphasising it WOULD? Anyway it's a moot point as DJR is right, it's 5% or less difference. So much for my calcs.

DJR not sure why the rears factor into diminishing the difference though, if they stay the same? It's still an increase in volume. As for firewall flex etc it's there anyway so the only variable is the volume change.

Do either of you know where I can get a seal kit locally for less than the $400 ;) or so I was quoted by a Brembo agent today?

Cheers

I dont think a driver will notice an adverse effect on pedal feel. I think its a matter of getting too carried away with numbers. ;) There is likely to be more difference in the old master cylinder and brake booster then from the change to F50s

What does the $400 include. Dust boots and pressure seals ? If its both then its not out of this world expensive. You may be able to get them for about $350, any cheaper and its because someone is robbing themselves :D

Hi Roy, yes I reckon it should. Or are you emphasising it WOULD? Anyway it's a moot point as DJR is right, it's 5% or less difference. So much for my calcs.

DJR not sure why the rears factor into diminishing the difference though, if they stay the same? It's still an increase in volume. As for firewall flex etc it's there anyway so the only variable is the volume change.

Cheers

Well because the brake pedal still needs to move the pistons in the rear clipers as well as the front. So you need to factor in the extra 2513mm per calliper.

Well because the brake pedal still needs to move the pistons in the rear clipers as well as the front. So you need to factor in the extra 2513mm per calliper.

the rears aren't changing, so they remain a constant. the difference in volume is on the front only, so if it's say 5% difference in the new front set up i don't see how the rears affect that. it's still a 5% difference. the volume of the rears doesn't have a different effect on a 5% greater volume front caliper than it does on a 10% greater volume caliper.

Roy the cost of seals in the US is about $45 / caliper.

does anyone have views on ideal brake bias ratios ie front vs rear brake torque factoring in pad, disc and piston size? let's assume pad compounds are not factored in although we know that this can affect the outcome.

does anyone have views on ideal brake bias ratios ie front vs rear brake torque factoring in pad, disc and piston size? let's assume pad compounds are not factored in although we know that this can affect the outcome.

That is a very hard thing to answer. Have you had your car corner weighed? I suggest you throw it on and accept the fact that the first few months/track days will be exploratory until you find the ideal setup. The ratio depends a lot on suspension, ride heights, weight distribution, tyre grip, CoG ... etc etc

coudn't agree more. i'm just pursuing this:

The most dramatic front-bias impacts are usually brought about by “big brake kits” which are not properly matched to the intended vehicle. Any time that a bigger front rotor is installed, there is a simultaneous need to decrease the effective clamping force of the caliper (installing smaller pistons is the easiest method) to offset the increased torque created by larger rotor effective radius. The objective is to maintain a constant amount of brake corner output (torque) for a given brake line pressure as Figure 6 illustrates. Unfortunately, too many upgrades do not take this factor into account, and those poor cars end up with both bigger rotors and larger pistons which serve to drastically shift the bias even more forward. While rock-solid stable under braking, stopping distances will go up dramatically.

from here:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brake...rformance.shtml

Sure you can read that. But how do you explain how an R32 GTSt running std calipers spaced out for 324mm, an increase of 44mm with std rotor and caliper at the back, with the same compounds all round wants to lock up rears well before the fronts? Even with a less racey pad out back the car wants to lock up rears?

Answer is the pitch of the car under suspension, an issue because of the soft springs and too low a front ride height. So sure, technically what is being discussed above is true, but there are so many other things going on when trying to stop the car that you can get it wrong when you look at parts in isolation

the rears aren't changing, so they remain a constant. the difference in volume is on the front only, so if it's say 5% difference in the new front set up i don't see how the rears affect that. it's still a 5% difference. the volume of the rears doesn't have a different effect on a 5% greater volume front caliper than it does on a 10% greater volume caliper.

Roy the cost of seals in the US is about $45 / caliper.

does anyone have views on ideal brake bias ratios ie front vs rear brake torque factoring in pad, disc and piston size? let's assume pad compounds are not factored in although we know that this can affect the outcome.

No the rears aren't changing, but they cannot be ignored.

The front volume is (per side) 5300mm2 (For the sake of the argument).

The rear volume is about half that at 2500mm2 (again for the sake of the argument).

So the brake pedal has to displace 7800mm2 of piston area per side prior to any calliper being changed.

If you add 250mm2 of area to the front the brake pedal has to displace 8050mm2 of piston area.

So the difference is then something like 3% as opposed to 4% or whatever the difference is for just the front callipers.

So in terms of pedal travel it is less significant than just looking at the front callipers.

In terms of bias most manufacturers (eg AP, Endless) appear to offer callipers with smaller piston areas & bigger rotors. To keep the bias constant.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...