Help! Rb20 Won't Start After Gtr Injector Install

[abu]

Questions:

Is there anyway to check that the injectors are firing without removing them all?

Also is it worth checking the voltage running to each injector from the resistor pack, if so then what should it be and whats it measured as - ohms?

When I crank the car on the Power FC hand commander it says INJ duty is 1.9% then it decreases as I keep cranking it - does that indicate that the injectors are firing?

[daisu]

Unbolt the CAS from the front of the engine, plug it into the loom and with the key in the on position turn the CAS by hand. You will hear the injectors firing (clicking), and if you take the spark plugs out you should be able to see them sparking too. The CAS sits on a keyed shaft (halfmoon shape) so it will only fit on one way can be a bit fiddly to get the shaft lined up but it's not too hard. You'll have to check your timing again with timing gun afterwards, might be a good idea to mark it's original position with a paint pen before removing it so you can put it on relatively close to its original position

Edited April 1, 2008 by daisu

[abu]

I got it running now - thanks to everyone for their assistance

[paulr33]

what was the fix

[robots]

Don't forget to come back here and tell everyone how you fixed it. There is no use for the forums, without doing it.

[RaZ_TuRbO]

yeah tell, tell

[abu]

We rechecked everything one by and one everything else was fine

The wire running to the resistor pack had power but it turned out the resistor pack it self didn't have power to it which was quiet weird

Rechecked wires and the power wire to the resistor pack was broken were it met the resistor pack wire! Re soldered that wire and there was power to the pack

Turned the car over and it started but there was a miss fire

Traced it back to injector 3 not firing - so we had to reopen up the loom and check what had gone wrong

The solder on injector 3 wire had broken because it had been bent/forced when taped up so we had to split the loom and re solder that - that involved removing the throttle body and a few other fiddly bits

Anyways soldered and re taped that wire up, mounted the resistor pack

Configured the PFC and its running mint now

[ashr32]

We rechecked everything one by and one everything else was fine

The wire running to the resistor pack had power but it turned out the resistor pack it self didn't have power to it which was quiet weird

Rechecked wires and the power wire to the resistor pack was broken were it met the resistor pack wire! Re soldered that wire and there was power to the pack

Turned the car over and it started but there was a miss fire

Traced it back to injector 3 not firing - so we had to reopen up the loom and check what had gone wrong

The solder on injector 3 wire had broken because it had been bent/forced when taped up so we had to split the loom and re solder that - that involved removing the throttle body and a few other fiddly bits

Anyways soldered and re taped that wire up, mounted the resistor pack

Configured the PFC and its running mint now

im glad you got it sorted mate, good to hear.

im doing the same thing but my issue is that it started straight with the PFC but as soon as the temp increases i get a bad miss. basically

2 minutes after starting and then its gets really bad

on your injector loom were there 2 other wires which share the common 12v feed? i think they are for the temp sensor and TPS.

basically i put the 6 injector wires through the resistor pack and then joined the power wire from the pack and the 2 extra wires to the common 12v on the loom.

so it looks like the pic attached

it shouldnt be a problem as its basically the same as before and only the injectors are going through the resistor.

ive got a guy coming out to re test the injectors on tuesday but if they come up ok im back to square 1 and like you i really dont want to go back to stock to test.

any ideas from anyone?

[SteveL]

Here's a clue......the power wire to the resistor pack should be connected DIRECTLY to an unswitched +12V supply line. From the factory, the GTR resistor pack +12V supply is connected more-or-less directly to the positive terminal of the battery (in fact, with the ECCS injection system used by all RB's and other Nissan engines, the positive feed to the injectors is connected directly to the positive side of the battery...all power switching is done via the ECU).

[ashr32]

Here's a clue......the power wire to the resistor pack should be connected DIRECTLY to an unswitched +12V supply line. From the factory, the GTR resistor pack +12V supply is connected more-or-less directly to the positive terminal of the battery (in fact, with the ECCS injection system used by all RB's and other Nissan engines, the positive feed to the injectors is connected directly to the positive side of the battery...all power switching is done via the ECU).

thanks for the info that makes sense being that the signal wire opens the injector. i have re checked everything and no change but the miss seems to be contained to just the 2nd cylinder and i have ruled out coils and plugs so ill get the 2 injector checked on tuesday.

aside from that the car is running mint as it finally starts first time everytime even with the remote start.

can wait to get this fixed and tuned

[ashr32]

ive rechecked everything and got the injectors re flowtested so its not that. but for the first post i looked and my hand controller and found the the INJ settings were still at 100% and no correction. will this cause my miss fire?

also if i flip over the pfc unit while the car is turned on it makes a ticking noise and the car shuts off. is this a safty of the unit?

this is driving my nuts guys but im slowly ticking things off