Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HAS ANYONE OUT THERE WITH A R34 GTT HAD ANY ISSUES FITTING THE HKS SSQ IN THE SAME SPOT THE FACTORY BOV IS?

MY TUNER MENTIONED ITS NOT A SIMPLE BOLT ON, EVEN WITH THE ADAPTER FLANGE. APPARENTLY HE NEEDS TO CUT HERE AND WELD THERE, HE IS STRONLGY RECOMENDING AGAINST PUTTING IT IN.

HAS ANYONE HAD PROBS FITTING?

CHEERS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213137-hks-ssq-bov-install-probs/
Share on other sites

HAS ANYONE OUT THERE WITH A R34 GTT HAD ANY ISSUES FITTING THE HKS SSQ IN THE SAME SPOT THE FACTORY BOV IS?

MY TUNER MENTIONED ITS NOT A SIMPLE BOLT ON, EVEN WITH THE ADAPTER FLANGE. APPARENTLY HE NEEDS TO CUT HERE AND WELD THERE, HE IS STRONLGY RECOMENDING AGAINST PUTTING IT IN.

HAS ANYONE HAD PROBS FITTING?

CHEERS

Ive got one fitted in my car, there's NO welding required, as it is a simply bolt on the factory pipe along with

the correct adapter plate attached.

DID IT GET IN THE WAY OF ANYTHING? APPARENTLY MINE IS? ALSO, I HAVE THE ADAPTER KIT TO FIT STRAIGHT ONTO MY ORIGINAL FLANGE,

DID YOU GUYS PLUMB IT BACK ?

Apparently yours is?? is that where you thinking, or is that what you've been told.

Post a pic mate, I didnt plumb back, it runs fine :/

MY TUNER MENTIONED HE WOULD PUT MY BOV ON FREE OF CHARGE AS LONG AS IT WAS SIMPLY A BOLT ON JOB AS I AM ALREADY PAYING 2,500.00 FOR A POWER FC, WALBRO PUMP + LABOUR.

HE RANG ME LAST NIGHT AND MENTIONED THAT IT WASNT GONNA BE AS SIMPLE AS BOLTING ON SINCE HE INSISTED WE PLUMB IT BACK. HE SAID THE BOV ITSELF HAD NO ROOM TO FIT AS A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR MY FACTORY BOV AND THE HKS PLUMB BACK EXTENSION WASNT LONG ENOUGH TO CONNECT WITH MY PIPE LEADING BACK TO THE ENGINE.

HE WAS PRETTY MUCH TELLING ME ITS WAS GOING TO NEED WELDING, FABRICATION, CUTTING, ETC. HE PRETTY MUCH TOLD ME TO FORGET ABOUT IT. I CANT FORGET ABOUT IT AS I HAVE JUST FORKED OUT ALMOST 400 BUCKS ON THIS BLOODY BOV AND I WANT IT ON MY FRIGGIN CAR.

IM NO MECHANIC BUT IS FITTING THE HKS BOV ON MY GTT SOMETHING I COULD DO MYSELF? I DID REPLACE MY FACTORY AIR FILTER WITH A POD FILTER MYSELF SO IF I WAS CAPABLE OF THAT SHOULD THE BOV BE SIMILAR IN FITTING?

THANKS BOYS.

as long as your engine bay is stockish then there should be no problem what so ever. There's the adaptor plate, the rubber o ring to go on the BOV and the little circlip that holds everything in place. 2 minute job putting it on. Pic of engine bay would help/.

ahh i think i see wat your trying to do mate. u want to plumb it back. DONT BOTHER. that is a bitch, and at the most all it would take is the plumb back adapter and maybe half a foot of 1'' rubber hose.

anyway. if u just block off the stock return pipe, and bolt on the ssq with the adapter. it will take about 15min. take out 2 bolts, take off stock bov. block return pipe. stick on bov with adapter and stick in the 2 bolts. thats it. i really dont see how its that difficult. i might suggest that your so called 'tuner' either doesnt know shit all. OR he has seen u coming a mile away. and would like to make a quick buck.

adapter shud look like this

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Skyline-GTS-BOV-ada...bayphotohosting

Edited by r33cruiser

hey thanks for the info guys. I think R33Cruiser is on the same page as my "tuner", the plumbing back side is whats causing the apparent massive headache.

Either way we've given the BOV install a miss this time round, but when i get the car back tonight, i will have a look and try and swap my stock BOV with the HKS BOV. I do have the adapter you are referring to with the BOV.

but with blocking the return pipe, whats a good way to do this? as I will attempt to swap BOV's myself tonight.

Edited by CK34GT

Hey how r ya, Its really eas to install, no cutting or welding is needed, ur tuner probably thought it was the universial one, wot u need is an adapter! its just a simple bolt on, And you also have to block your plumback with a metal thingy.. mine came with it.. Tough sound but car doesnt run right unless u tune it, ur car will run rich and will stall sometimes.. that is just my 2cents from wot ive learnt.

Geraus.

CK34GT get a pic of your engine bay near your throttle body, its a freakn 10min job and shouldnt hard at all.

even if u wanna plumb it back it is easy as piss, as long as you have the plumb back adapter.

if you dont have anything and jsut the BOV, then yes its gonna be a pain.

if ur unsure like i said post a pic ive done it before

CK34GT get a pic of your engine bay near your throttle body, its a freakn 10min job and shouldnt hard at all.

SIF 10 min job.... dont tell him its 10 minutes, he starts to panic after 10 minutes....

i just install it yesterday.

YES i agree with you, theres a hose which is connected to your boost reading for the stock boost gauge in the car, u can just fit the ssqv in an angle around 30 degrees.

you do not need to fit it in horizontally, just give it a twist b4 installing it into the current position.

all you need is an adapter from ebay. works fine n quality is not bad.

Hi All,

Ok I got the car back last night. By the way the Power FC makes such a massive difference.

Anyways back on topic. I have taken a few snap shots of my engine bay as is and my new BOV accessories.

I have a pretty good idea what to do.

2002801899462616405_th.jpg

2002806121756749678_th.jpg

Any advise let me know what you think.

Thanks heaps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
    • Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
×
×
  • Create New...