Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL @ anyone saying the rev limiter would have stopped it.

Of course it doesn't. All it does is cut fuel.. If the engine is being forced to rev harder, then nothing is going to stop it..

Reminds me of the guy driving multi-tyred road roller, big hill behind Hervey Bay.

Cooked the brakes but he decided the compression would hold it....

Poor old Perkins did at least 10,000rpm, threw rods, pistons before she crashed and burned.

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My mate did the exact same thing in his R31 which runs a NA RB30DE.

He ran 14.0 I think.... maybe a tad faster

The car has like 12:1 compression.

He said he shifted at like 7000rpm and the car just ripped up to like 9500rpm before he pushed the clutch back in.

It did nothing to his car that he can tell and its been about 4 months or so since and hasn't noticed any thing.

just a question on your question.. WHAT THE F**K!!! how did ur synchros even manage to get it into second?? from thurd?? lucky it diddnt shit itself there and then auto would deal with this altho a manual well different story the amount of load put on your engine and driveline would be like a cop pulling ur arm behind your back till it snapped... if nothing is wrong then all the best and good luck :P

My mates R31 was manual and he said the syncos loved it. Went strait in with out a problem.

Its not going to do as much as you think it is as the engine isn't making any power.

Clutch would slip or wheels would light up before it did any damage. Clutch dropping a car with lots of grip from rev limiter would be worse.

yeah didn't get to do the test yet but cuz im so impatient i went for few runs already dropping it into 2nd then rocketing it :P but the engine didn't blow UP so im guessing its okay...

anywayz i been told by UAS to do leak down test and been told by nathan from grey imports to do compression test, hell im so confused on which test to bloody do, might just do both!

wat u guys think?

Edited by R33Turbo
not sure mate, dark blue maybe black. i believe it was a 2door 3 series. but that is a slightly educated guess only.

Gotcha, so it was a newish model. Most likely one of the S/C one's that run around.

Just do both tests, a leak down and compression test will tell you what shape the engine's in, cost wise it's fairly cheap for peace of mind.

but if the valves did bend or something, would it be noticable when driving normally?

Im assuming my clutch slipping when over-rev saved my engine cuz if it didn't slip maybe i woulda blown the engine

Edited by R33Turbo

It's fine.

if there was a problem, like it has been said, it would have been a HUGE failure. like get a tow truck home failure.

a few years ago, there was a link being sent around to a US honda forum where some guy was doing a run on the freeway in his DC5R when they were new.

shifted from 4th at 8500rpm to 3rd instead of 5th.

resulted in what looked like the end of Terminator 2, where the liquid metal terminator is in the lava shit.

go do a regular service with new oil and oil filter for the engine and maybe change your gearbox oil and diff oil for good measure too.

my mate in his 93 Prelude did a similar thing.. he was racing and evo on the motorway.. they were doing around 120 or something i dont know. He dropped from 5th to 2nd. over-revved to like 10000or woteva.

hahaha. his engine was a mess. needed a tow truck hahaha. needless to say he needed a new engine. stupid honda's.

f**king hell what does down south have to do with yourbloody 1/4 times.

No car in QLD (heat taken into account) gets close to the times down there!

What MPH did you run on the 13.75 run? And wat 60ft did you do?

I just wanna compare cause our cars are running the same mods and should be relatively even

For note, im pulling 14.7 @ 97MPH (not holding boost well as i dont have a ebc, but running a peakish 11psi drop back) with 2.3 60fts (i know thats my problem too)

but it wont net me a whole second getting it down to 2 flat

f**king hell what does down south have to do with yourbloody 1/4 times.

No car in QLD (heat taken into account) gets close to the times down there!

What MPH did you run on the 13.75 run? And wat 60ft did you do?

I just wanna compare cause our cars are running the same mods and should be relatively even

For note, im pulling 14.7 @ 97MPH (not holding boost well as i dont have a ebc, but running a peakish 11psi drop back) with 2.3 60fts (i know thats my problem too)

but it wont net me a whole second getting it down to 2 flat

yeah apart from the mis-shift im quite happy with the time i got considering the mods...

60foot time was 2.14 something and it was at 161km/hr...

when i got 2.4 something 60 ft time my 1/4 time ended up to be 13.9 ...so 60 foot time is the most important, however i have no idea why ur pulling 14.7 it shouldn't even be that high stock... thats wat non-turbos do

BTW my boost doesn't hold either and ends up dropping to around 9 which i was complaining about but im assuming its normal for stock turbo

Edited by R33Turbo

hmmm... the 60ft your doing is still pretty slow. im running around 3mph slower, which isnt major. there will always be some difference with cars etc, but over all pretty close.

I truely am starting to believe the track i race on (benaraby raceway, less then top class) may have some sort of differences/timing problems.

every car i watch there pulls so much then the equivalent down south.

either way, thats hauling ass dude. i would get you to drive my car if you can pull those times!

i dont know whats with my time either, my mph is healthy enough!

congrats to you either way!

what rims and tires are you using, and can you share you launch technique?

Edited by Granthem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...