R32 Gtr Hunt

[shepo]

The search has finnaly begun, im on the lookout for an R32 GTR, and i just wanted to find out what sort of things i need to look for on them as i am after a good one.

Are there any common problems that they have that i should be aware of?

Any tell tale signs that they might have had a hard life?

Some state that they have had either an r33 or r34 engine fitted, how do i tell this?

thats all i can think of at the moment,

thanks in advance,

Matty.

[NoFX_Hardcore]

There is quite a few things you should look out for that I've found out...

1. check for good oil pressure. mine sits absolutely dead on 4 when fully warmed up. Unless its been rebuilt or something, your oil pressure will be a bit lower but shouldn't be lower than 3 I don't think??(someone confirm this)

2. check the chassis rails. quite often they are damaged on imports due to being lifted by forklifts and really bad hoists...

3. i would recommend a compression test and overall independent mechanical inspection.

You should be able to tell straight up if its an R34 engine. R34 heads were painted red instead of just black and the plenum was black in the 32 and not in the 34. not sure bout telling between 33's though. Just check the engine number and see if it matches up. thats definitely the best way.

This is a 32... Someone got a 34 engine bay?

Edited April 3, 2008 by NoFX_Hardcore

[Yawn]

R33 engine covers were black with unpainted (silver) plenums if im not mistaken. R34 engine covers are candy red and their coil pack covers have GT-R on it instead of the normal Nissan Twin Cam bla bla on 33s and 32s.

I have this habit of judging the condition of an r32 based on its plenum condition. Less paint = lousier condition etc

Check for rust underneath the n1 skirts if it has some. Check underneath the boot carpet, if its rusty or not. If its rusty water is getting in (common) and the rust could be worse than ur eyes can see.

Check if it drives straight, and check the chassis rails as stated.

Edited April 3, 2008 by Yawn

[shepo]

Ive heard about the paint flaking off the plenums before, usually thats the first thing i look at as well.

thanks for the tips, if there are any other things i should look out for please tell,

has anyone had a bad experience with their R32 GTR after purchase?

cheers.

[Tomek]

Like said above, check for rust under wheel arches and under spare tire. Paint flaking on the plenum seems to be a good instantenous way to make an assumption on how hard the motor's life has been, id prefer to get a compression test before I pass my judgement, as it's not very hard to re-paint a plenum.

Pending on what sort state of tune R you want to buy, you want to make sure all components aren't on there last legs... Box (4th synchro mmmm), clutch, diffs $$$$$$

Oh... and don't settle on the first one you see.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Just off the top of my head

Check...

Speedo, all Japanese cars came with a 180km speedo unless factory specified = R34 GTR N1's and up had 320km speedos (from memory)

With 180 km speedo its more likely the K's are believable or the best you can rely on anyway.

Listen out for any noises in engine / turbos / diff / gearbox, listen to the car to see if it sounds healthy

Look at the gauges to make sure they are all working.

All the lights in the dash are lit.

Brakes, make sure the disk are not warped and brake pads

Flaky paint on inlet plenum = was driven hard and the heat has taken off the paint.

Check liquids = Oil / Brake / Clutch / Radiator / Power steering

Check the spark plug gaps, only way to tell if the car had a boost controller or not. Usually the gap is Wider if its been boosted and with after-market spark plugs.

Give the car a rev to see how smooth it goes and then give it a quick high rev to see how well it reacts and then check the rpm on idle to see if it drops out.

Test drive the car to see its performance.

Everything should be in mechanical working order!

Bring a mechanic with you!

Interior...

Wear on seats, front and rear / doors / gear shift knob / hand brake / carpets / and all panels

air vents to make sure its not broken or a boost gauge shoved in it

Exterior...

Check Panels for rust / any accident history / paint

keep in mind you are buying a car which was made back in 1989 to 1994 thats a good 10 to 16 year old car things are bound to be changed anytime soon. Keep and eye on turbos / brakes / diff / clutch...

Unless the car is FACTORY STOCK, one owner with service history books, service every 5000ks and timing belt changed at 100 000km (at least if not earlier) and not a single modification.

If you buy a later model = new car but still check everything.

There is a tonne of stuff, just PM me if you want anything in specific.

Cya round!

Edited April 4, 2008 by (00)SKYLINE(00)

[shepo]

thanks heaps for the help guys, now i just have to keep an eye out for a good one.

im looking for something that already has a few mods and is making decent power.

i will keep you all posted on how the search is going.

thanks again,

Matty

[Black Widow]

thanks heaps for the help guys, now i just have to keep an eye out for a good one.

im looking for something that already has a few mods and is making decent power.

i will keep you all posted on how the search is going.

thanks again,

Matty

matty, its nick man,

so u finally selling the 4 door.....rock on!

good luck with the search man..

i didn't see anyone write this, and i'm not entirely sure, but normally if it seems a bit cheap it more than likely needs a rebuild?

[r32line]

If you dont't mind, i was curious about what you hab budgeted for the car purchase?

[shepo]

im looking around 20 - 25k thats why im hoping for a good one

also, how do you pick the diference between a standard gtr and a vspec?

cheers.

[NoFX_Hardcore]

im looking around 20 - 25k thats why im hoping for a good one

also, how do you pick the diference between a standard gtr and a vspec?

cheers.

Again, only real safe way is to check vin/engine numbers. You will never know the real kms of a jap car unless they have a full log booked history which is pretty rare. Best way to tell is, like some have said, check interior parts like seats and steering wheel and dash... If these appear to be in great quality, chances are the kms are genuinely low and the car has been looked after.

EDIT: with a budget of 20-25k, you can be expecting to get one in pretty good nick... The best thing to do, since you have the money, is to get one that has had a recent full forged rebuild! My friend just bought a 32 GTR and launched it once pretty soft and it spun a bearing. This will save you alot of time and money. If you cant find, or like one that hasnt been rebuilt, please keep tabs on the oil lol. GTR's are supposed to be on the full indicator and some people say a tiny bit over when it comes to oil. Oil pressure in my car sits on 4bar when warm so check that too.

Edited April 5, 2008 by NoFX_Hardcore

[bloodzkull]

ok. when i bought mine it was advertised for 23000. got if for 20,000 and spent about 1200 to replace all brake rotors get a modplate for the cage (bought interstate so need a new one) and get the road worthy. so all up on the road not including rego and insurance it cost me 22200.

the speedo said 125xxx when i bought it. the only marks on the interior where where the full cage (previously fitted, now half cage) rubbed slightly.

but now i have blown the motor for spending to long at hight revs. *DO OIL CONTROL MODS* didn't launch mine, just gave it some from first to a little bit in 4th (private road i swear!)

basicly the number 1 big end was destroyed, along with a crank that was worn enuogh for me to replace(kinda fussy could have got it off with a bit of machine work). and a cracked pisting ring land in number 6. apart from number 6 all cylinders where perfect. which leads me to belive the odometer was correct. cracked ring land was put down to running 18psi for a large amount of time.

try revving it till about 6-7ish then straight off the throttle. cuased i little blue smoke in mine. classic valve stem seal problem in mine but turned out to be the cracked ring land.

in summary. get a full check by racq/reputable mechanic then budget twice as much. but buy one. you will love it.

p.s. long story for not much, but you get the idea of what someone else is going through so give you an idea.

[Yawn]

One problem with judging the history of the car based on its interior condition is that stuff like the steering wheel and seats could have easily been swapped out early in its life for full buckets etc. so to be more suited for circuit work, then swapped back to stock bits when put up for sale. This would mean you're buying an ex-circuit oriented car, which could be a could thing for the chassis if they got it spot welded, but cant be too good for the motor or mechanical bits assuming they were using the stock stuff

I know i might be thinking too much here but you can never be too safe

Edited April 5, 2008 by Yawn

[NoFX_Hardcore]

Yeah you're spot on there Yawn, as I have heard of people doing the very same thing. It's always a good starting point though to verify kms and its easy.

[R32zilla]

Again, only real safe way is to check vin/engine numbers. You will never know the real kms of a jap car unless they have a full log booked history which is pretty rare. Best way to tell is, like some have said, check interior parts like seats and steering wheel and dash... If these appear to be in great quality, chances are the kms are genuinely low and the car has been looked after.

EDIT: with a budget of 20-25k, you can be expecting to get one in pretty good nick... The best thing to do, since you have the money, is to get one that has had a recent full forged rebuild! My friend just bought a 32 GTR and launched it once pretty soft and it spun a bearing. This will save you alot of time and money. If you cant find, or like one that hasnt been rebuilt, please keep tabs on the oil lol. GTR's are supposed to be on the full indicator and some people say a tiny bit over when it comes to oil. Oil pressure in my car sits on 4bar when warm so check that too.

4 bar when warm? You have a problem there mate - could be partially spun bearing, or blocked oil filter which could in turn affect the seals on the turbo as they are mostly rated to about 4 bar before they leak oil into the inlet system

Infact, oil pressure when warm should be no more than 22psi or about 1.5bar.

[NoFX_Hardcore]

4 bar when warm? You have a problem there mate - could be partially spun bearing, or blocked oil filter which could in turn affect the seals on the turbo as they are mostly rated to about 4 bar before they leak oil into the inlet system

Infact, oil pressure when warm should be no more than 22psi or about 1.5bar.

My car has had a forged rebuild..I also have a n1 oil pump... Must be why its higher. But 1.5 bar seems very low??? I would have thought at least 2bar as thats what my friends 34 (rb25) sits at...

[PAV34]

Shepo im in the same boat as you mate!

I have a few questions that i need answered that might help you out also.

Interested to know what other 32GTR owners say there oil pressure sits on;

-The '93 32GTR im looking to buy atm sits just under 2 - normal?

-It also makes that teriblle "tu tu tu" sound when you back up off the throttle, owner says it started? happening when he installed the twin air pods - liar?

-Speedo seems to jump a little at low speeds - why?

-Doesnt like to go into 1st gear unless your at a very low speed, even with the clutch fully engaged - normal?

[bloodzkull]

that's normal oil pressure i am pretty sure.

the tu tu tu noise is flutter. maybe on of the blow off valves isn't opening properly? pods only make any sort of induction noise louder.

dunno about the speed so much, define low speeds

and the hard to get into first gear thing is pretty much normal on most cars

[PAV34]

0 - 60kmph..

I bloody hate the flutter it makes, i hope it isnt harming the turbos.

as for the first gear thing, the GTT i had didnt do that - different cars i guess.

Also - Its satrts boosting at about 3500rpm, is that normal? - stock exhaust mind you...

[R32zilla]

My car has had a forged rebuild..I also have a n1 oil pump... Must be why its higher. But 1.5 bar seems very low??? I would have thought at least 2bar as thats what my friends 34 (rb25) sits at...

You claim 4bar at idle...thats way above 2...I would think its a cause for concern thats all.

The NISSAN GTR manual states 21psi and 1.5 bar @ 800rpm ie idle