Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd put my money on body damage... but....

You never know. To be sure, you'd have to measure it up to see if the body is square.

Also, right when you think all the damage has been repaired, you drive it for a few days then find out theres rattles, and squeaks and so on.

I'd buy that car to be a racetrack or drag only car.

Originally posted by nerces

well they have the forklift to move the cars cause its a pain to move lots of cars having to jump in and out of them... it runs fine.  

i just wanted to get your guys advice thanks for the help :O

LOL and you're only worried about the accident damage? :D

Yeah it's a pain to move the cars by driving them but at least it doesn't f*** them up...:D

Good luck! :D

theres always going to be structure damage in most accidents ... this one doesn't look to major .. but i would say the frame would slightly be offline and u have to get a crash repairer to put it back ... having said that ... if u dont' mind driving a damaged car and can get an excellent repairer to fix it ... i dont' think there should be any troubles ... thats just my opinion ... i say if u get a really good price then buy it :P ... like under 10k :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
×
×
  • Create New...