Jump to content
SAU Community

Overheating 180sx

Equinox

By Equinox,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Equinox Rising Star

Equinox

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've got a problem with my friend's 180SX.

After it is warm it only takes 3-4 full throttle runs to redline to get his water temp up to the 90s, and it takes ages to come back down. He used to drift it at Winton with no issues until one day when it just overheated on the track and has been doing it ever since.

Since that day, to try and fix it we have:

- Rebuilt head. Cleaned up the whole thing, port and polished the ports and installed new head gasket.

- Removed thermostat.

- Installed Alloy Radiator

- Installed Twin Thermos

- Bypassed heater core

- Changed Water Pump

- Flushed the whole system

And it still does it! Can anyone think of anything we've missed? One of our friends suggested that the water pump could be sucking the radiator hose closed at high rpm, but I've never heard of that happening before?

Car is running a T518Z, is an SR and is making around 240rwkw if it makes any difference.

Thanks,

Peter

Edited by Equinox
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213318-overheating-180sx/
Share on other sites
tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
Posted

not to sure about your engine, but on the Rb26 if you remove the thermostat entirely then the water will bypass the block and just go straight out the outlet pipe as its only 100 mm apart. As most things it will take the path of least resistance and the rb26 has a 25 mm hole in the back of the themostat house which is connected the outlet pipe on the head.

cpt_impossible Apprentice

cpt_impossible

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here is a writeup I did for NICO Club (US), maybe something in it will help.

OMG my RB is overheating

Oh, and the water pump sucking the line closed, that was my problem I believe. When I replaced the lower hose, which was soft with an OEM unit from tweakit, the overheating problem I had at constant higher RPM (Freeway) went away.

Edited by cpt_impossible
D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted

I'm pretty sure that an oil cooler will go a long way to fixing your heating problems. The thrust turbo's heat the oil up quite a bit as they are oil cooled and they run hotter than the equivalent water cooled BB turbos.

Do you have a SR with the factory heat exchanger on top of the oil filter or not? (some did some didn't) Even if it does they don't work very well.

I was having the same heating problems with my CA18 as i was getting oil temps around the 105 mark and water temps around 95 in general driving. As soon as i fitted an oil cooler i didn't get engine temps above the factory 82 degree's and the oil temps haven't been above 90 degrees

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lithium
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Lithium · Posted

      Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • MBS206
      My BMW 335i

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Duncan
      So whats the deal with the porous block VR30DDTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      To clarify what I posted above, I thought you both had a situation where it cancelled sooner one way than the other.....if it is reasonably even where it cancels in either direction that is probably normal (consider gentle movements like lane changes, you don't want it to need half a turn of lock to turn the indicators off)
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW 335i

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Son, in this country, that is a piece of Gyprock. f**king drywall. FFS! I also like the autocorrect of trailer to tablet. I was reading it and thing, "what the hell drugs is he on?" Then the photo made it clear enough.
×
×
  • Create New...