Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  Yawn said:
The standard gtr diff is a 2 way? Im confused :down:

yes it is. but it doesn't have as many clutch plates as a common aftermarket 2 way. so it's much more liveable on daily driving, doesn't clunk etc and needs more torque generally before it locks.

you can convert a starndard 32 GTR diff to what is effectively a nismo 2 way for about $200 with a kit from nismo.

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  djr81 said:
But you cannot get a TT for a GT-R.

Are you sure about that Richard? I got quoted one by Greenline.. But I choked and got the Pro because I wasn't sure if the TT was going to be man enough.. I'm pretty sure they are available for the GT-R, and in hindsight, probably what I should have got for a more streetable diff that still hangs on..

The pro has adjustable preload. It's as streetable as you want it to be. Mines the model below that so permanently uber tight. great on the track, and exactly as beer baron described on the street.

  R32 TT said:
Are you sure about that Richard? I got quoted one by Greenline.. But I choked and got the Pro because I wasn't sure if the TT was going to be man enough.. I'm pretty sure they are available for the GT-R, and in hindsight, probably what I should have got for a more streetable diff that still hangs on..

Turns out they do now offer one. Sorry for my old info. I couldn't find one last year when I looked.

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/gt.html

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...sdpro_price.pdf

Edited by djr81
  Beer Baron said:
i have a nismo 2 way in the silvia. you are welcome to test it out chubbs. it's a farkin pig of a thing around the streets. it clunks like buggery and sounds like your whole car is about to fall apart! or alternatively it will chirp tyres. BUT on the track it's awesome. very predictable which is exactly what you want. :)

hahahha i have a nismo 2 way aswell, noisy, clucky, everyone looks at my car like its about to fall apart but i LOVE it and id never replace it with anything else in the world

:P:D:D:D:D:wub::wub:

Richard, yeah would love to have a drive :D

I drove a work mates sprinter with a two way around my area, and yeah, I totally now know what you guys mean about the car about to fall apart!!!

But if its great on the track - I dont care bout the street ;)

  • 4 weeks later...

^^^ lol evil bish...

You have already driven a shimmed 32GTR (nismo kit) 2 way, the zed has one... Although once we changed the oil (drag day) it got clunkier and less street friendly then the old oil which was lets say.... extremely overdue!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

I new to learning about Diffs. I have a R32 GTS-T. I do daily driving, dont race but do like to go fast on the highway and take tight corners on the street. Do I need a upgraded Diff or is the stock one fine? I rode in a R32 GTS-T that had a 2way Diff and it was loud and clunky. I don't want this, is there a way to get a upgraded Diff and not have this annoying sound and clunkiness. Girlfriend wouldn't like it either. Laugh

Help

  335 said:
I new to learning about Diffs. I have a R32 GTS-T. I do daily driving, dont race but do like to go fast on the highway and take tight corners on the street. Do I need a upgraded Diff or is the stock one fine? I rode in a R32 GTS-T that had a 2way Diff and it was loud and clunky. I don't want this, is there a way to get a upgraded Diff and not have this annoying sound and clunkiness. Girlfriend wouldn't like it either. Laugh

Help

Well the best advice you will get is to stop driving like an idiot on the road and take your car to a track.

Apparently when a car gets impounded it doesn't really matter what type of diff it has.

Typically girlfriends don't much like having to walk everywhere either.

Edited by djr81

im inthe same boat as 335 have only just purchased my first skyline (r32) and im loving it, but now im looking at taking it to the tracks for drift days and all that! I know that i need one but what sort is the question, i still drive the car on the streets and the majority of my driving is done in the car so something thats not to bad but will give me the control i need<br /><br />cheers josh

Edited by 533EYA

The fundamental problem is that what works well on the track is usually far too harsh for the road & what is nice to drive on the road is inadequate for the tracks.

Having said that check the Nismo GT Pro LSD TT range (or whatever the most recent stuff is called) as they are the nearest I have found to a reasonable compromise.

I'm running the Cusco RS 2 way in my car now... and let me say that it has done more for rear end grip than any other mod so far... that includes shocks, pinapples, camber adjustment and good tires...

it will try and turn the inside wheel whilst parking and doing tight turns on the street and will clunk a little when cold, but none of the harsh banging that I have experienced with some of the more agro diffs... once you adjust your driving style to suit ie stay off the throttle and 'coast' when you have lots of steering lock on its fine...

it is the more street friendly of the Cusco range as it uses springs to lessen the shock... the MZ is the agro one

At DECA (motokhana) I have also had to change driving style... where once I could do a handbrake turn whilst staying in 2nd (it would light up the unloaded tire which would bring the revs up and I could power away) now it just grips and bogs and I need to use 1st gear... once it is out sideways tho it feels much more controllable, and most importantly much quicker

the whole 2 way thing hasn't been an issue yet but I haven't been onto a proper track... it will lock the rears if you downshift too harshly but that kinda helps turn in lol

  Beer Baron said:
...you can convert a starndard 32 GTR diff to what is effectively a nismo 2 way for about $200 with a kit from nismo.

Are these the right numbers and what the difference...8kg/12kg???

3843S-RS520 - 8kgf spec

3843S-RS521- 12kgf spec

yeah I think I posted it earlier in the thread maybe? Spewing, I've had one on my desk for months, but I just posted it off to another user here last week!

lol, the ol sneaky edit while I was posting trick! not sure if they are right but they should be if you found it in one of my other posts. the difference i believe is the preload.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...