Smoking Gtr

[cuppas]

is your AFR mapped right for partial throttle positions as well?

[700HP-GTR33]

Say i rev to 7000 in 2nd and then same in 3rd and then change to 4th and just coast along and slow down. Well about 5 seconds after I back off I get about 5 to 10 seconds of white smoke. sometimes get a good backfire and flame too which I know is nothing to worry about.

I have a new catch can setup which is vent to atmo but I currently have the pvc valve still attached to the rocker cover. Could I just block off the pvc valve? This would obviously stop any oily fumes getting into the inlet manifold.

Tim.

And may I ask what speed you are travelling at 7000RPM in third gear?

Maybe you should ease off the pedal...seems to me that you do this on a regular basis.

If you are concerned get it back to your tuner for diagnosis.

[R32 Zilla]

I knew someone would ask about that. Well I have my very own private race track .

The truth is the car hardly ever gets driven like that. Definitely not on a regular basis. Though I do have plans to do some hill climbs ect this year and thats part of the reason I want it to be running right.

Yes going back to CRD for diagnosis is an option but as good as they are I cant afford to do that just now.

Tim.

[700HP-GTR33]

I think you may have over fueling....a cat that is stuffed...or you are in need of new Turbo's.

Could be all

But you would be a colourfull sight as you drove past......

Own private track you say........

Where do I get one of them.......?

As for my question of what speed you are doing........

When I rev out 2nd to 7000 and follow it with a rev out of 3rd to 7000....I am traveling at 200k's.

This is of course on a track

[R32 Zilla]

I got a brand new cat and yeah turbos seem to be number one suspect. Not a real easy job to rip them out to see their condition but it may be the only way.

Private race tracks ......... Havnt you seen them on ebay ?

[FLY12N]

Think about it, if your on boost and it makes smoke... but when idling its ok... must be something to do with the turbo. By any chance did you drain the oil too much and starve the turbos.

From personal experience. Once after racing (drove the bastard hard too) I noticed the car was blowing white smoke. Drove it easy to home, the smoke stopped after a while and I checked the oil. I was way low. Filled it back up and started blowing smoke again (obviously the oil seals in the turbo were f**ked and it was eating all the oil). The turbo still functioned relatively normal tho and there was minimal/no smoke on idle.

Upon removing the dump from the turbo... oil all over the shop.

Replaced the turbo, oil lines (bigger items) and all the seals. Perfect. No smoke. Normal operation.

[Bumblebee]

oil level has nothing to do with ur turbo burning oil... lol thats the dumbest thing ive ever read hahah

if theyres oil pressure.. the turbo will burn oil. its not a cup that over spills if theres too much water in it.. geez hahah

only way that it wont.. is if theres no oil pressure, and that kills ur engine more than ur turbo

[RaZ_TuRbO]

Thats so weird my cars doing this now, just installed z32 and remap chip and is untuned. The smoke is hard to identify, but i dont think its white. Full boost it smokes quite bad and i get a swirl of smoke for a few seconds when backed off, it also been blowing the dipstick out since easter but no difference in performace.. i just zip tied it in .

I feel no difference in performance, i do think i have to trim up the afrs with the safc2 when i get some dyno time...

my question is has this story had anymore progress?

[R34GTFOUR]

Thats so weird my cars doing this now, just installed z32 and remap chip and is untuned. The smoke is hard to identify, but i dont think its white. Full boost it smokes quite bad and i get a swirl of smoke for a few seconds when backed off, it also been blowing the dipstick out since easter but no difference in performace.. i just zip tied it in .

I feel no difference in performance, i do think i have to trim up the afrs with the safc2 when i get some dyno time...

my question is has this story had anymore progress?

if its blowing the dipstick out the motor is really breathing. Its either been way over filled with oil, or its quite tired.

As for R32 Zilla, my number 1 suspects would be the turbos aswell. I know its a pain to rip them off, but you might have to bit the bullet and do it. How many kms have they done, with what sort of treatment? A weeping turbo seal will throw out a lot of "fluffy" white smoke, but it will do it quite badly at idle so that makes me think yours havent totally gone.

Valve stem seals tend to be more of a start up smoke problem.

If the motors only been rebuilt a few years back without much abuse, its hard to believe the rings would be buggered aswell, but i would do a compression test yourself and get the actual psi readings and post them up. Does the catch can actually fill with oil? if so, how quickly?

[RaZ_TuRbO]

Could blowing out the dipstick just be more boost(before easter it got tuned to 18psi)+worn seal on dip stick?

[FLY12N]

oil level has nothing to do with ur turbo burning oil... lol thats the dumbest thing ive ever read hahah

if theyres oil pressure.. the turbo will burn oil. its not a cup that over spills if theres too much water in it.. geez hahah

only way that it wont.. is if theres no oil pressure, and that kills ur engine more than ur turbo

Did you even read my post? I should have added to it that my oil pressure dropped to the bottom of the gauge.

Blown oil seal = Oil Pressure loss.

And as the seal is oil blown, and oil dumps into exhaust, it obviously causes the oil level to drop (which left long enough will starve the turbos). Hence why when you fill it back up it it will smoke again.

[700HP-GTR33]

Could blowing out the dipstick just be more boost(before easter it got tuned to 18psi)+worn seal on dip stick?

Crank pressure increase and worn dip stick seals almost always contribute to this.

You can get a catch can to help your top end but there is nothing you can do about crank pressure.

Renew your dip stick or have it like mine..tide down with wire.

[nfi]

White smoke= burning coolant/water

Blue smoke= burning oil

Brown/black smoke= running rich

btw 12:1 I wouldn't call on the rich side. 12.5:1 is the ideal mixture for power and leaves no headroom for a bad batch of fuel or a sticky injector. I prefer to run high 11's. Lose a couple of kw and save the bottom end while still having an engine that is efficient.

[Pun4N1]

hey dude i had a VLT that did exactly that especially after a full throttle drag or something heavy. it turned out the compression rings where not too good and when it came on boost it was presurising the crank case in turn presurising the oil galery in the turbo and pushing oil in to the exhaust through the back of the turbo. i doubt very much the oil is going through your combustion chambers. i tried to eleviate the issue by making the breathers in the cam cover bigger and putting an air/oil seperator and catch can on it. That worked a bit but i ended up needing to re build the engine.

Edited April 15, 2008 by Pun4N1

[bubba]

OP and Raz, have you made sure your breather hoses are hooked up right? I bought my car with a VERY similar problem and the guy thought it was fkd, rerouted a few hoses and all was sweet.. something to check out anyway

[RaZ_TuRbO]

which hose in particular?, think mine are all on right as i havent touched them, is there any breathers that arnt obvious?, might check anyways...cheers

[Pun4N1]

if they all look ok then they could well be hooked up properly but if your engine breathes really heavey they wont keep up and pressure will eventually build up, especially under boost. a way you can tell if you engine is breathing heavey is to take your oil cap off while the engine is running (the revs will drop coz it's getting un metered air) and just put your had over the hole, if it feels like it is puffing out heavy you have problems if just a tiny bit you should be ok.