Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Cold Running Update

Slim Mat

By Slim Mat,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Slim Mat Collaborator

Slim Mat

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

been a while since I have posted here. It's good to see the community is still strong. New GT-R looks good too.

This is an update for the topic of R32 GT-R's running badly when they are cold. Most posts involved complaints of the car surging and a coughing sound coming from the engine bay, with decreased performance, then at a certain point everything would go normal like a switch had been thrown.

After a bit of testing using my Power FC, I think I have come up with an answer.

I noticed that when I installed the power fc that the problem went away. It makes me think that the problem lies in the standard ECU, sorry guys, bad news for some because there is probably nothing you can do about it. It has the very similar aspects that bad IGNITION TIMING has, as in, the ignition timing when it is cold is retard up to shit.

This explains the lack of power and the coughing(sort of acting like antilag on rally cars, where the turbos is spooling really low in the rev range). What is happening is the ECU is retarding the timing when it is cold, then when it hits a pre-programmed temperature it changes it to normal. Power FC's are programmed differently and that's why it goes away, although if you played around with the warm up setting you could get it to do the same thing. I think it is coolant temperature correction....

If anyone thinks they can expand on this, feel free to add to this topic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213464-r32-cold-running-update/
Share on other sites
Syphon Rising Star

Syphon

Posted
Posted

Interesting topic to come up. I have an r33 with an rb20 remap in mine and am having a very similiar issue. Cold start the exhaust note "sounds" different and as you take off the turbo spools very loud, no power and all of suddden like a light switch it takes off. I have seen the issue with consult plugged into the laptop and the timing sits dead flat on 7 degrees btdc, then like a light switch at about 2200rpm, hits 30-40 degrees btdc and off it goes. If I shut the car down and restart it, 85% of the time the car will then drive normally.

I know for a fact with my car that the knock sensors are faulty and am yet to bypass them in the next week to see if the problem goes away. Keep in mind mind the Power FC will not adjust the map accordingly if it senses knock, all it does it display the level of knock, unlike the standard ecu which will pull timing and add fuel as far as I gather. It's possible that the motor is a little noisy on startup and dropping the ecu into the knock map. Rather weird issue and I am clutching at straws but bypassing the knock sensors will definately tell me if that is causing the issue.

I have seen my ecu produce 2 faults, one was knock sensors, the other was ignition signal. CAS possibly playing up....maybe, although i tend to think not. I need to look into the ignition signal fault and see what variables the ecu looks for to see why this would be produced. My alternator is also a little suspect.

Maybe grab consult, a laptop and cable and whack it on your car before a cold start and see what fault codes come up?

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted

Probably due to Power FC being properly tuned for the car, therefore when its running rich while warming up(cold start), its better suited to the modifications of the car.

Might find guys running remaps/NIStune etc. don't have these issues (if tuned properly).

I don't think this is a inherent flaw with the stock ecu, but more a symptom of Nissan's 'safe' factory tune.

Bumblebee Experienced

Bumblebee

Posted
Posted (edited)

My gtr doesnt do any funny stuff at all when its cold... ever

its never done anything funny at any stage... ever :banana:

its gotta be something else, not ecu related

possible its a sensor malfunction that the fc doesnt rely on heavily.. like the knock. factory ecus run the cars off the knock whether the fc doesnt. atleast from what ive read. theyre like a switch.. either its knocking or its not knockin enough for it show up *shrugs*

Edited by Bumblebee
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

It's just cold start, I don't see what the big deal is. I've seen it mentioned many many times before, you shouldn't be driving your car hard until it's warm anyway so just deal.

My car has always done it, stock RB20/ecu and now with RB30/remapped ecu, until coolant is up to temp it's in "cold start" and drives like a pig with more than say 5% throttle, so I just don't rev it over 2000rpm or use much throttle until it comes out of cold start.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Murray_Calavera
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...