Cv's Keep Breaking - R32 Gtr...?

[PX29]

Hi guys,

Wonder if anyone can me help here..

Last night I broke the SECOND front drivers side inner CV within like 3 weeks.!!

This happened both times when under hard acceleration.

I did lower the car recently prior to this happening but not sure if this has anything to do with it...though I've seen GTR's lower than mine...??

Could it be something to do with the front diff...?

Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening.?

I'll have to spend another couple of hrs installing another drive shaft, but hope it'll be the last time.

Pics below.

Cheers,

Edited April 5, 2008 by PX29

[GTR-32U]

I have heard of this before on a friend who had a GTR...Apparently the height does make a difference to the CV's....but his was lowered a lot.....how low are we talkin ?...also...how is the ATTESSA transfer case ? AWD isnt sticking on or anything bizarre like that is it ?

Edited April 5, 2008 by GTR-32U

[PX29]

How do I check if the ATTESSA transfer case is ok..?

The gaurd is just above the tyres (see pic).....was your mates lower than this..?

The other thing is that the rear tyres are pretty worn compared to the front, but I thought this would just cause it to go into 4WD when the rear starts to spin...?

Cheers,

[PX29]

Anyone else had this problem with the front inner cv popping out....??

[dead32]

ive broken the same side c.v shaft in a r32 gtr before, that was due to a close to redline launch, replaced it with a 2nd hand c.v shaft and its been fine ever since... so im guessing it was on the way out, not caused by any particular problem.....

are you replacing with reco'ed?2nd hand? new?

[PX29]

ive broken the same side c.v shaft in a r32 gtr before, that was due to a close to redline launch, replaced it with a 2nd hand c.v shaft and its been fine ever since... so im guessing it was on the way out, not caused by any particular problem.....

are you replacing with reco'ed?2nd hand? new?

I replaced it with second hand item.....the inner cv just seemed to "pop" out..

[dead32]

just noticed in another thread actualy. that hks make a "drag" c.v shaft... not sure if its an old product or you can still get them... im assumingtheyre stronger

[PX29]

just noticed in another thread actualy. that hks make a "drag" c.v shaft... not sure if its an old product or you can still get them... im assumingtheyre stronger

Thanks, but I'm not making huge power....standard internals and standard turbos......

[GTS4WD]

What size wheels and rubber are you running?

A diffrence here can cause problems.. If you have odd sized rolling diameters it could cause an AWD to spin the front and rear wheels at diffrent rates.. hence, causing things.. like CV's.. to break..

Just a thought..

[PX29]

What size wheels and rubber are you running?

A diffrence here can cause problems.. If you have odd sized rolling diameters it could cause an AWD to spin the front and rear wheels at diffrent rates.. hence, causing things.. like CV's.. to break..

Just a thought..

Thanks for the comment, Yes the rear tyres are more worn than the front.

Shall get new tyres also.

cheers,

Edited April 22, 2008 by PX29

[RipNGrip]

I am currently in the similar position... I have a gts-4 r32 running rear wheel drive.. and after a little wear on the rear tires 4wd system kicked in and snapped the front right innner CV so i replaced it and the power steering line that it fractured and two/three weeks later while the 4wd system was deactivated; went over a big bump in my drive way and poped out the front right inner CV again... do u have any ideas on what could be causing it?

p.s my car is lowered with JIC coilovers but it isn't that low

[N1GTR]

Ive been through a heap of these fkn things.

Annoying at $400 a pop.

In the end mine kept letting go cause the engine mounts were destroyed and rocked the motor right over on launches or even just a decent rev. That of course means the sump will move which is attached to the driveshafts and CV's and then you have that annoying sound of the CV going off to car part heaven

[RipNGrip]

how did u know it was the engine brackets...? my motor seems pretty solid.. even when i rev

[RipNGrip]

I talked to a driveline workshop... they said it could be too low and that when wheel/hud is fully extended it may excessed the cvs arch range and pop out of the inner core when compresse dagain

[RipNGrip]

found out.. engine mounts! my car is maybe 15cm off the ground so found the problem.. getting fixed right now soon i will be able to drive her again!

[GTRPowa]

Can we get some seriously knowledgeable and experienced people in on this problem? Can any of you come back and perhaps say "Yes, I fixed it, this is what I had to do?" I know when someone posts several times in a row, then all of a sudden is silent, that the prob is fixed. So share your definitive fix with us so we aren't all running around wasting time. World spins faster then.

I broke one being rough.. Put another one on and it broke within 200km. It survived a full day of tuning on the Croydon dyno, then someone takes it for a test drive, and before it even reaches boost, the spider pops out of the enclosure it's meant to sit in. So it comes out, then flies around destroying itself. The current one that broke on me will be fine to re-use once I get 2 balls that went missing from the spider.

But my issue is, why is this happening? I don't really want to keep buying shaft after shaft. Especially since this could (depending on the circumstance) keep me stranded somewhere late at night. We all know the shaft needs to be locked into the diff or it will leak. We also know it must be flush with the wheel hub for the wheel sensors to work... What am I missing here?

It's DEFINITELY related to the distance between the wheel hub and the diff becoming longer. This car has stock hubs and diff setup. Yes, it's lowered, but nothing more than every second GTR I see out there.

Facts: The shaft was a 'reco' from justjap. Well reputed.

The 2 front wheels seem to measure about where they should be

Front shafts can handle huge power, 8 second cars use them.

The spider pops out, only stretching a shaft's length could cause this.

Questions: Can a shim/washer be placed on the INSIDE of the hub over the shaft to shorten it a bit?

Do diffs leak if the shaft was (lets say) 5mm unseated?

Are shafts supposed to have a surclip to stop the spider from pulling out of it's enclosure?

Would adjusting castor AND camber help to bring the centre of the hubs in? (Too far in and it'll look weird, this is shit)

Did anyone actually work on their engine mounts? And have DIRECT success afterwards?

Anyone here using camber or castor kits?

Anyone with a working car got a measurement between the diff housing and the inner right hub?

Let's get this crap fixed.

-33

[N1GTR]

how did u know it was the engine brackets...? my motor seems pretty solid.. even when i rev

As i said, personal experience

found out.. engine mounts! my car is maybe 15cm off the ground so found the problem.. getting fixed right now soon i will be able to drive her again!

Glad to see its fixed

Can we get some seriously knowledgeable and experienced people in on this problem?

Did anyone actually work on their engine mounts? And have DIRECT success afterwards?

Anyone here using camber or castor kits?

I dont come in here very often, but if you read this thread carefully and do a quick search you'll see the answer.

The answer was ENGINE MOUNTS!

CRD should know to check them if front CV's keep on breaking, especially when its a car they just tuned - its another chance for them to rape your wallet.

My car is lowered so far the rims dont fit under the guards without lots of neg camber, so yes im using a kit, AND had direct success (just like the guy above your post) after replacing mounts.

I suggest you start there

[GTRPowa]

And here it starts. Mainly because I have to stand my ground on certain issues.

Yours is the only one that mentions a fix. You 'blamed' the mounts, but didn't actually mention that you fixed them, and hence your problem went away. But I'll make the assumption that that's what you did.

And the guy above me, same thing, he blamed the mounts, said "Hopefully today I can drive it again" and since then no reply. So again, I have to assume (with my wallet) that engine mounts are the cause. Although on the dyno the engine experienced no shaking or rattles, even coming off throttle. But hey I'll buy them anyways, a new shaft as well.. And if the mounts dont make a diff and the next $300 shaft breaks, I'll come back and bitch some more. I've searched the internet, this forum, spoken with many reputable shops, all that have never even seen this problem with their own eyes, ever. Telling me do 'perhaps do a search' simply insults my attempts to find a fix to the problem, and also to show others (in a very logical and concise manner) what the causes are, and how to remove/fix/adjust them.

"CV's keep on breaking" They aren't 'breaking', the spider pop's out and it's only the aftermath that kills it.

It's obviously a problem not plaguing everybody. Not every GTR owner is experiencing this problem. Frankly I wish I was one of you, so I could complain about misfires when backing off at 4000rpm and the likes. Those probs sound better than "Hey, I have no AWD and 0% traction after spending over $7,000 on parts and labour for a tune"

Keep up my options people. The geometry on both wheels are identical when measured on a level surface. The engine isn't shaking around, the car is in great condition and hardly thrashed, etc.

I'm actually looking at getting a shamfered washer (or the likes) and placing it between the shaft and the wheel hub to space it out, although this will be a last ditch effort. If I break another shaft I'll sell the car and let someone else deal with it.. ..lol

Edited July 23, 2009 by GTRPowa

[GTRPowa]

I've since made my way out to a local bearing and bolt shop. I've found a few washers that fit over the splines, but only just.

These washers were flat, but after putting them between the CV join and the hub, and tightening them, they've since become perfectly shamfered.

2 of these washers is enough to give me an extra 5mm on the shaft. The sensor still seems to work fine, I just need to wait for a complete shaft to test it.

I'm going to couple that additional 5mm, with a camber kit to straighten my front wheels back up. But the issue I see with this is the upper camber arms (easily obtained) will only push the centre of the hub further away in order to achieve a level camber. I'm thinking I need a type of 'lower arm'. The arm that sits parallel with the tierods. If I can get an adjustable version of that, then I could pull the bottom area of the rim in, helping achieve level camber while again bringing the hub a few extra mm in.

Next thing I'm looking at is modifying the shaft inside the fixed join section. Perhaps in there I can buy an extra mm or two, and by this stage I'll be looking at around 10mm extra length.. Considering the VERY UNIQUE circumstances for these to break, I don't think I'll encounter any problems ever again after performing these modofications.

I'll keep you all posted as to my results.

[ezy_09s]

Mate jack up the car and put car stands under the front, now get a piece of 2x3 timber or similar and jack up the passenger side engine mount under the mount bracket that bolts to the engine block.

This is the first place i would be looking if i was breaking cv's...

i had the same issue of breaking cv's on the driver side & after thinking my mounts were fine they BOTH were found to be f*cked.

After speaking to some experienced gtr racers even they said 9 times out of ten ,broken cv's are caused by engine mounts.

So i would think to check this first before thinking you should be spacing the shafts out.