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Mate jack up the car and put car stands under the front, now get a piece of 2x3 timber or similar and jack up the passenger side engine mount under the mount bracket that bolts to the engine block.

This is the first place i would be looking if i was breaking cv's...

i had the same issue of breaking cv's on the driver side & after thinking my mounts were fine they BOTH were found to be f*cked.

After speaking to some experienced gtr racers even they said 9 times out of ten ,broken cv's are caused by engine mounts.

So i would think to check this first before thinking you should be spacing the shafts out.

I'm looking at available engine mounts nowadays as well to finish the job off. Not one element will be left untouched, and even if the engine was 'locked' into place with metal mounts, the spider must still be extremely close to coming out.

I figured adding all these elements together will buy me as much leeway as I can have. And considering the enclosure for the spider is about 100mm deep, I have a fair amount of gap I can close whichever way I can.

lol There is no way in hell that I'm breaking another one of these bastards. I'm very thorough with stubborn problems such as this.

Time to find some extra strength mounts to polish off the setup, the camber kit is on the way.

Ok well, in response to that, on the forums i agree there are threads that can do with more info, but at the same time the original poster said what he was doing then went silent, so its safe to assume it worked, if it didnt he wouldve been in this thread that night. Anyway;

First up i thought id broken the cv from excess vibrations on a mates driveway (ridges on it like a cow grate), the car didnt make it up the hill before the cv let go. Got it replaced (cv, driveshaft, rubbers etc).

Went about 60m and broke again, the wheel had some huge alignment issues which i assumed was from the work done and was on the way to get al alignment. Towed again, same parts replaced.

Fixed a 3rd time, towed to alignment shop and aligned. Lasted 1km. Towed yet again.

Knew it was something else, towed it to a workshop i use sometimes, sat there for a while talking with the mechanics, we were discussing what could vibrate the joint enough to dislodge something, engine mounts were the logical choice of places to start looking. As ezy9's said, a bar was placed under that point and the motor lifted right up - we all looked at each other and knew what to do.

Nismo mounts fitted (gearbox included), with twin plate at the same time, never had a problem again - after countless launches and generally driving like a tool its still fine.

As ezy9's said, a bar was placed under that point and the motor lifted right up - we all looked at each other and knew what to do.

So what do you see when you jack it? I assume the top part of the mount just lifts up, but could you damage a good mount by doing this?

^^ Yep you will clearly see once you take the weight of the engine off the crossmember whether they are f*cked or not...bottom part still attached to crossmember.

Edited by ezy_09s

I've bought a set of them Nismo mounts you guys recommend. Although I must ask, with the passenger mount, removing the bottom nut is quite easy, but the top nut is very difficult to reach.

How do I get this nut off? Is there a certain way?

I read in another thread that the guy lifted the engines weight and removed a crossmember, but I assume he's got a different engine since I cant see a removable crossmember?

The drivers side mount is very easy to get to on both ends of it, just the passenger ones causing the problem.

--

On top of this, it appears I have no hooks on the engine to lift it with a crane. Judging by the poor quality scetches in the manual, I should see a hook/mount on the front right (intake side), and rear left (exhaust side) of the engine..

I see neither.. Am I looking in the wrong place or are they probably missing? I've done a few transplants before on other cars, but never a Nissan.

If they 'are' missing, where would you guys try and sling an engine?

Excuse all the questions, trying to ask it all in one post. :>

A reply for myself and others:

Well it was a real pain the a$$ trying to get them mounts in, but I got them in.

I had to cut down the length of the bolts on the mounts a bit, but nothing dangerous, they still just protrude through the nuts.

I didn't have crane slings in the end, so hiring the crane was kind of a waste (for me anyways) - But I can see how the job would be alot easier with a crane.

I took out the passenger side drive shaft to access the passenger mount. It has a worn boot anyways so it may as well come out anyways.

Now I just gotta stick the shafts back in and give it a test drive. I have 3.5mm shims to space the naughty shaft a little extra to ensure this wont happen again.

Haven't driven a kilometer in it (in 4WD) since Croydon tuned it so I'm really keen to get out there.

The passenger one had some semi deep cracks in it, probably enough to cause some flex, but it wasn't ripped into two. (Although it did break into two as I jacked it up, so it woulda been weak as well)

The drivers side looked almost new, but I replaced it anyways. They probably tried the passenger side, but if it was as hard as it was for me, they probably gave up, cause it was old, possibly original.

There isn't much I can add to help others change their mounts, I was armed with 3 jacks and 2 jack stands and still had huge issues. Took me 5 hours! Alot of the time was working out where to jack the engine because all the crane points on the engine are missing.

Yeah the passenger side is a c*nt of a job...i took the driveshaft out to access the top nut on the mount also.

It took me about 3 hours to do my mounts.

2 jacks, a pair of stands,a bit of 2x3 timber was all that was needed..crane not necessary.

Yeah I have a habit of overdoing a job, simply cause I dont like going out mid-job to get more tools and parts, and cranes etc.. lol..

And the car was in a spot where I'd have to put it back together to get a crane in there so I got it early..

Mounts and shafts together? It took me around 10-12 hours, including getting a pro to repack and reboot one of the shafts..

I was excessively slow cause I didnt want to break anything, which kinda brings me to a offtopic question.. I'll ask it in a new thread.

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