Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi i just woundering if anyone uses the mechanic down on Gillan Drive Kelmscott accross the road from mitre 10. I drive past there every day and i have noticed some 180s,r33s and heaps of other imports there. Anyone no who he is or if he is any good at what he does. Any info would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213582-mechanic-on-gillam-dr-kelmscott/
Share on other sites

OK, just had my neighbour tell me who this is (but of course I promptly forgot his name :) ) but apparently he runs some pretty insane mazda rotaries at the drags and is just starting out. Going by the guys own cars I would say he may be worth trying out, and unlike a lot of so called Perth based "performance" mechanics he will work on all sorts of stuff from NA 4cyl all the way up to S/C BB V8's and everything in between.

hmmmm sounds good :P so who's willing to be a test mule and go try ?

The place u are talking about is Lee Sanders. he used to work for rotamotion but now has his own workshop in Kelmscott. Top bloke to deal with, knows his shit and does top quality work.

the company is called Sanders Racing.

cheers

john

The place u are talking about is Lee Sanders. he used to work for rotamotion but now has his own workshop in Kelmscott. Top bloke to deal with, knows his shit and does top quality work.

the company is called Sanders Racing.

cheers

john

he worked for cypher then moved to ovaboost and now is doing his own thing. dont think hes worked for rotamotion?

but your right lee is a top bloke to deal with and his fabrication is a work of art

  • 2 weeks later...

Thats a really good price......

Does that include the timing belt being replaced as well as the idler and tensioner pulleys?!?

Cause they can add about 300 bucks to the bill if they need to be replaced....and then there is the water pump...

I have been quoted around $1000 if you want everything to be done...

On that note, does anyone recommend a good workshop to go a full 100 k service on a '92 R32 GTS-T??

Edited by Douse

ok here are some details

Name: Sanders Racing

Where: Unit 2/55 Gillam Drive Kelmscott

Does: Rotary work, fabrication, custom turbo installations to any vehicle and general mechanical repairs.

Phone #: 04 03 50 57 88

Lee has a 700 plus horsepower RX3 that runs 9.20 @ 148mph and is very well known in the drag racing scene

And yes he did work for Cypher and then he did move to ovaboost. .

Does awesome work

Sweet man, let us know how it goes.

I am trying to find a good mechanic to do my 100k service.....

Kinda don't trust my car to anyone :blush:

Well my R33 goes in tomorrow to get it's service. I been quoted $220 it seems resonable. And by the way the bloke I spoke to was very nice and helpfull. Hope his work is good.
Dropping the 33 off monday morning for 100,000k service and to suss out driveline problem,will let you guys know how it goes.

Got quoted $450 for the lot if thats good.

how'd the service go mate?what he do for the $450? my 100,000k due aswell and i only

live round the corner from there :) so it'd be sweet

looks like there is a lot more guys on here from the gossy-kelmscott-armadale area then i thought....

going to visit him 2morrow to see how he feels about putting a new cv on my gheyundai....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...