M35 Brakes

[bigkevracer]

My RDA slotted disks and QFM pads made a huge improvement to the braking, more than the GTR callipers ever did.

Thats what I was thinking. Pads are crap on it, heaps of dust, so might go that way instead for now.

Thanks for that!

[ironpaw]

My brembos arrived today...are DBA rotors and QFM pads going to be better then the OEM Brembo rotor and pads?

How do I tell if the calipers need resealing?

Edited March 15, 2011 by ironpaw

[richzx]

The Brembo's are always going to be better if you're using the same pad but how much better I don't know as it can also depend on master cylinder size etc.

Resealing? Do you mean the paint is coming off or do the calipers need new seals? I would put the calipers on as is and see what how you go, I've never bothered to put a kit through calipers I've bought and they've been fine. That said, the rebuild kits are cheap and easy to do.

[jidge]

Finally got my RDA slotted rotors and QFM HPX pads fitted on the ARX

I must say the car stops much better now. So I am pretty happy with the result.

I haven't had a chance to try heavy braking yet as this is to be avoided for the first 300km apparently.

[ironpaw]

Finally got my RDA slotted rotors and QFM HPX pads fitted on the ARX

I must say the car stops much better now. So I am pretty happy with the result.

I haven't had a chance to try heavy braking yet as this is to be avoided for the first 300km apparently.

hmm I thought to bed them in u need to brake pretty heavily!

[KiwiRS4T]

That's right.

Here's a simple version - there is a better one from various pad suppliers but don't have time to look them up and this is the guts of it:

http://www.ehow.com/how_4537003_new-brake-pads-andor-rotors.html

[Daleo]

A much more detailed one from ther DBA website;

T017%20-%20Basic%20Initital%20Bed-In%20-%20Street_01.pdf

Edited May 24, 2011 by Daleo

[jidge]

Correct.

My mechanic performed the bedding process for me (good guy).

Speaking of which if you are after an import in Adelaide I am very satisfied with this company (see details below). I bought my Stagea through Vince and the after sales service has been excellent.

I would definitely recommend!

But back to the point....

From the DBA document:

"After step 4 (bedding in) your new disc rotors &/or pads are ready for normal use. Be aware that the full bedding in process can take up to 300 – 500 kms depending on driving style. During this period try and avoid any high speed hard braking to a dead stop."

Import Compliance Systems

22 Pleasant Grove

Holden Hill

5088

Ph. 0400 945 645

Fax 08 8263 2300

[email protected]

[gslrallysport]

hmm I thought to bed them in u need to brake pretty heavily!

Not really no. The idea of bed in isn't to 'cook' the pads or put any sort of massive heat through them, but to transfer an even layer of pad material to the rotor. As that ehow thing says, they only accelerate to 30mph, which is ample. The key is to be consistent in the application, and transfer that even layer. An uneven layer of material leads to DTV (disc thickness variation) and what most people like to call warping... Even though rotors rarely (if ever...) 'warp', it just doesn't happen*.

I hate hearing horror stories of people bedding in pads doing 120km/hr-10 hard stops... that's a sure fire way to bugger the pad up.

* Rather than me explain, have a quick squiz of this:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

[ironpaw]

Err, I read the stoptech bed in guide and it said to brake from 60mph - 10mph repeated TEN times...

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinperformance.shtml

Bedding-in Street-Performance Pads

For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or 'green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

I would think 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes is on the "heavy" side?

Edited May 25, 2011 by ironpaw

[gslrallysport]

That may haven been written before asbestos was banned, and pad composition changed dramatically. There's very few modern pads that require the resin to be burned off as they're talking about. As DBA said in that attached PDF, it's more about transferring that even film of material to the rotor.

The procedure that DBA list in that PDF is much closer to the mark:

Basic Bed-In Procedure.

Always consider the Brake pad manufacturers bedding in recommendations.

1. After installing new disc rotors &/or brake pads, perform 8 to 10 slow-downs applying moderate pressure

from approximately 50 – 60 Kph without coming to a stop.

2. Make an additional 2 to 3 slow-downs applying heavy pressure from approximately 60 - 70 Kph without

coming to a stop.

3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!

4. Allow at least 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.

After step 4 your new disc rotors &/or pads are ready for normal use. Be aware that the full bedding in process can

take up to 300 – 500 kms depending on driving style. During this period try and avoid any high speed hard braking to

a dead stop.

60mph is way fast to be bedding pads in. QFM's own in house bed in procedure:

[ironpaw]

That may haven been written before asbestos was banned, and pad composition changed dramatically. There's very few modern pads that require the resin to be burned off as they're talking about. As DBA said in that attached PDF, it's more about transferring that even film of material to the rotor.

The procedure that DBA list in that PDF is much closer to the mark:

60mph is way fast to be bedding pads in. QFM's own in house bed in procedure:

Sweet thanks for the info...hopefully I didn't fk my brakes up!

[Lewb]

Hi All,

Have just got my M35 from the compliance place to find that there was very little compliance work done.

Here is the report:

ACT Government Vehicle Inspection Receipt - Comments and Repairs Needed:

Supply weighbridge ticket for tare weight.

Front and rear rotor coroded

Front and rear brake pads worn

Cat converter not replaced as per RAWS - consumer information notice

Left hand rear shock leaking

Air box intake not secured.

Rear tyres bald on inner edge.

Exhaust leak at rear.

Fog lights don't comply (disconnect)

Fit correct RM Mirror (flat) not convex - as per RAWS - consumer information notice

Vehicle must comply with RAWS certification

On the checklist they failed:

Exhaust X

Suspension X

Drive Train X

Brakes X

Tyres/Wheels X

So, because the most basic compliance work wasn't done, the ACT road registry guys went to town. I am looking at these:

296mm diameter x 49mm high x 24mm thick x 68mm centre hole x 5 stud in Gold groovies @ $300 the pair . Front pads in EBC Greens @ $135 a set.

If anyone could confirm these fit? Really want to get them lined up as it’s killing me to look at my car in the driveway – will get the brakes done properly but does anyone have any good tips for resolving the other stuff?

Cheers!

Edited August 2, 2012 by Lewb

[Daleo]

How is it that the Compliance hasn't been done? Why isn't ACT road registry in contact with the Complier with regard to their failure to ensure the vehicle is roadworthy?

You pay for this; return it to them and request that they comply with the law and do the job.

[bigkevracer]

Fog lights don't comply? Mine weren't disconnected and it passed fine.

For rotors and pads, you're after 350Z Touring (i.e. non Brembo). As per the other thread get onto GSL Rallysport/Brakes Direct.

You'll need new tyres, may as well just replace all 4.

Someone on here probably has a stock exhaust system you can borrow to get it over the pit. Mine is at AM Performance still (I think) but Adelaide isn't practical.

I'd be following Dale's advice and putting this back on the complier. They're certified to do the job, so they should do it!

[Ross]

One thing to note is that even the brake pads have to be factory items for compliance. I replaced the pads in my V35 with some EBC's before compliance, to which i was told they had to be removed and replaced with what ever came factory on the car.

Edited August 2, 2012 by Ross

[bigkevracer]

If thats the case I do still have a set of factory rotors lying about.

[Lewb]

I got myself the front rotors and will order the pads once I can get the car up on a hoist as it appears impossible to confirm what kind of pads fit my car.

How is it that the Compliance hasn't been done? Why isn't ACT road registry in contact with the Complier with regard to their failure to ensure the vehicle is roadworthy?

You pay for this; return it to them and request that they comply with the law and do the job.

Hey guys,

Daleo, tell me about it! The compliance shop are in the process of being busted by the federal agency. The ACT guys called them over after seeing that the car should never have received its plate from DOTAR. To 'make good' he is sending the necessary parts to a former compliance guy in Canberra who doesn't have a shop any more and will fit these parts to my car in some other guy's shop. Real classy.

Not sure of the legality or potential kick back, but, I really want to name this shop so that people avoid them. Thoughts?

Also guys, can someone confirm the kinds of rear shock that fit a M35 250t RS Four? Can I fit R33 or R34 Gts-T rear shocks as replacements? If so I will look for cheap individual ones from wreckers to replace my leaking shock that was noted by the ACT rego guys. Man it is killing me to not be able to drive this car!

[Daleo]

I got myself the front rotors and will order the pads once I can get the car up on a hoist as it appears impossible to confirm what kind of pads fit my car.

Hey guys,

Daleo, tell me about it! The compliance shop are in the process of being busted by the federal agency. The ACT guys called them over after seeing that the car should never have received its plate from DOTAR. To 'make good' he is sending the necessary parts to a former compliance guy in Canberra who doesn't have a shop any more and will fit these parts to my car in some other guy's shop. Real classy.

Not sure of the legality or potential kick back, but, I really want to name this shop so that people avoid them. Thoughts?

Also guys, can someone confirm the kinds of rear shock that fit a M35 250t RS Four? Can I fit R33 or R34 Gts-T rear shocks as replacements? If so I will look for cheap individual ones from wreckers to replace my leaking shock that was noted by the ACT rego guys. Man it is killing me to not be able to drive this car!

Front pads are 350z touring pads. Rears are X-Trail. I have part numbers at home; but get in touch with GSL Rallysport, as others have said.

I'd be careful naming anyone; it exposes SAU to potential legal issues; and your thread will either be edited, or locked.

They aren't an easily available "off the shelf shock" ; I reckon you'd be better off looking at a set of BC BR coilovers. For $1200ish you won't buy better, and you can get them to ride quite nicely. If you need a set of rear shocks in the short term; I have a set you are welcome to borrow, but I'm located in Sydney.

[Lewb]

Thanks for clearing it up RE the pads and the naming of the compliance mob, Dale.

Someone suggested I could write it with asterisks between the letters to make sure google didn't pick it up but I'll avoid the mess for now - just a touch of bitterness in my mouth that will washed away once I've got my car on the road!

Dale, can I confirm that the BC BR coilovers are $1200 all up? I would absolutely take you up on borrowing the rear shocks if I could get there soon but, after a month of continuous trips between Canberra and Sydney I need to be in Canberra the next couple of weekends. Do we know if the R33 Gts-T shocks fit M35s?