Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally after going on 9 months of my car sitting at the panel shop, my insurance has finally desided that it isnt worth fixing and are just gonna write it off :thumbsup: so now i have to move on :) . and thats where i need help i'll have bout 17-18k to play with. i would like a r32 gtr but everyone keeps telling me they're too old, too expensive to fix, an insurance will cost a fortune, so i would like to get the opinion of some one who actually owns one.

apart from the gtr im thinkin bout either another r33 gtst, a r34 gtt, or a chaser. but would consider pretty much anything (aslong as i can fit in the drivers seat, being 6'4" causes alot of problems).

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

You're a bit stuck in limbo Skyline-wise for that price. A decent R34GTT is over $20k (shitboxes can be had for less though). A decent R32GTR is over $20k (shitboxes can be had for less though). For that price range I would find a tastefully modded and mint condition R33GTSt that all the money has been spent, and you can just drive, rather than fix up all the time.

not interested in wrx's heard about and seen to many things gone wrong with a used wrx, news ok but out of my budget, i was told i could get a r32 gtr in really good condition landed and complied for 17k, but the more i have the better, as for the 33gtr it is a possibility, i mite be willing to increase my budget slightly if the right one come round, my boss picked up a really nice r34 4door a month ago for 16k, so they are out there just gotta be patient and keep an eye out...

Edited by FR33K
Finally after going on 9 months of my car sitting at the panel shop, my insurance has finally desided that it isnt worth fixing and are just gonna write it off :thumbsup: so now i have to move on :yes: . and thats where i need help i'll have bout 17-18k to play with. i would like a r32 gtr but everyone keeps telling me they're too old, too expensive to fix, an insurance will cost a fortune, so i would like to get the opinion of some one who actually owns one.

apart from the gtr im thinkin bout either another r33 gtst, a r34 gtt, or a chaser. but would consider pretty much anything (aslong as i can fit in the drivers seat, being 6'4" causes alot of problems).

Hey mate. Im the same, im 6'4 and used to drive a 33 s2 gtst then r34 gtt (both coupes). 33 feels way bigger in every way to r34, but i kind of missed my leg-room from the 33.

Like Nightcrawler said previously, ur budget is a bit borderline. I suggest you wait for a little bit longer and save up, in the mean time prices will fall even more, and then hopefully you can get a decent 33 GTR for around $22k mark.

So obviously 33GTR is my no1. choice for that money (and trust me i put a lot of thought into this as i sold my 34 GTT recently and almost got a 33 GTR, but then a house popped up and cars now on delay.)

Good luck !

hey mate. u said you were interested in a 32 gtr.... soooooo many things to consider and if you are going to buy one you will want it heavily inspected...

a thrashed gtr will cost you alot of money once things start going wrong but if you are lucky enough to find a good relatively standard example with a few handling mods GET IT

6 months later and im still grinning from ear to ear about mine.. even tho i cant drive it for 2 more months (liscence) i love going out and tinkering with it and just going over everything replacing the little things to make sure its all in good condition...

they are time consiming and requir patience.. especially with your right foot... on the other hand if you want to keep the revvs under 5 grand vast majority of the time... not too much should go wrong with a good example...

if your planning on getting a car to keep for a long time get a 32 gtr maintain it and mod it tastefully to your needs.... the sky is the limit with these things... and the wallet is the other limit.

extremely safe cars if treated correctly

good luck with your descision

Bought an R32 GTR about 9 months ago and havnt looked back since. Had a few issues at the start but just make sure you get it thouraly inspected before purchase. The car you buy really depends on what your personal tastes are. If your keen on an R32 dont let the age be a barrier as there are plenty of clean examples still out there if you look hard enough.

Ryan

hey mate. u said you were interested in a 32 gtr.... soooooo many things to consider and if you are going to buy one you will want it heavily inspected...

a thrashed gtr will cost you alot of money once things start going wrong but if you are lucky enough to find a good relatively standard example with a few handling mods GET IT

6 months later and im still grinning from ear to ear about mine.. even tho i cant drive it for 2 more months (liscence) i love going out and tinkering with it and just going over everything replacing the little things to make sure its all in good condition...

they are time consiming and requir patience.. especially with your right foot... on the other hand if you want to keep the revvs under 5 grand vast majority of the time... not too much should go wrong with a good example...

if your planning on getting a car to keep for a long time get a 32 gtr maintain it and mod it tastefully to your needs.... the sky is the limit with these things... and the wallet is the other limit.

extremely safe cars if treated correctly

good luck with your descision

Whats with R32 GTR's and ppl losing their licence's LOL (lost mine recently). I'd get an R32 GTR, Mine was $24 without all the on road shit ya gotta pay but get a decent stock one and sould be around 20. Shouldnt take long to save up abit extra? Well worth it. but yeh, like every one else has stated, get it heavily inspected.

Edited by GTR-32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...