Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Since I have a series 1 front bar, there is alot of the front bar blocking the cold air hitting the intercooler.

I did a quick photo shop of what I want to do.

I will make it all neat ofcourse with fibreglass etc etc, but I was just wondering what you guys think, will it help in terms of performance? I don't really give two sh!ts about the looks, I'd prefer to keep it looking standard providing that it doesn't hinder my performance?

As you can see it covers about 50% of my intercooler, which I think is alot.

So, will I get better performance by doing what I have detailed in the pics attached?

Cheers

post-48356-1207441809_thumb.jpg post-48356-1207441828_thumb.jpg

did the same thing to my car on the weekend.

took the front bar off, jigsawed out the number plate cross bar. used a saw blade and dremel to neaten the edging. i will be fibreglassing the cut bits to make it even and painting the lip and cooler black most likely to try and hide it a little while still having decent airflow.

i also used a dremel to mount my number plate off to the side using the standard clips and bolts.

i'll try and get a pic up if you are interested. but its not finished off yet.

Make sure you use epoxy resin to glass it, not the cheap polyester stuff.

Better still trim bits of the plastic offcuts to fit the gaps and get them plastic welded into place

cool thanks for the tips

didnt even think about using the plastic off cuts. they are in the bin now haha

did the same thing to my car on the weekend.

took the front bar off, jigsawed out the number plate cross bar. used a saw blade and dremel to neaten the edging. i will be fibreglassing the cut bits to make it even and painting the lip and cooler black most likely to try and hide it a little while still having decent airflow.

i also used a dremel to mount my number plate off to the side using the standard clips and bolts.

i'll try and get a pic up if you are interested. but its not finished off yet.

a pic would be great!

Cheers

is that a standard S1 front bar, mine is the same and from other pics i have seen i was under the impression that it was an m-spec, if it is standard them im happier because i have lost one of my grilles and it will be easier to find if its standard.

is that a standard S1 front bar, mine is the same and from other pics i have seen i was under the impression that it was an m-spec, if it is standard them im happier because i have lost one of my grilles and it will be easier to find if its standard.

WTF are you on about....?

I have no idea what you just meant..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...