Jump to content
SAU Community

Making Sure That The Car You Buy Isn't Stolen/financed


Recommended Posts

One of the Victorian GTR owners I spoke with last week told me his mate bought a Merc convertible (around $250k) from a private seller recently. He ran the Vicroads pre-purchase vehicle check (is this the same as the Register of Encumbered Vehicles?) check on the car. The check was clear and within 36 hours bought the same car, from the same owner at the same address. Is there some 24-hour rule?

A few weeks later, the cops pulled him over for something and took his car away as it was apparently stolen, with no compensation. The guy is currently taking Vicroads to court for wasting his cool quarter mil, but no doubt will lose his case, as Vicroads expressly states on the pre-purchase check disclaimer

"Information in this package is provided without liability and without responsibility for its accuracy. VicRoads accepts no liability for any loss incurred by anyone relying on information in this package."

Now, my question is, instead of relying on the pre-purchase check, how do we make sure that the car we are buying isn't dodgy? Apart from checking the registration, VIN/chassis, engine number and the seller's driver's licence, I have heard of things like making sure the blue plate in the engine bay is printed, not engraved, etc

Also noting down the model number and calling up a Nissan Spare Parts centre and asking them about the vehicle.

Anything I have missed?

Also, is it true that all car dealers in Melbourne by law need to guarantee that any car you buy from them does not have finance on it or is stolen, and if it turns out that in fact they are stolen/financed, then the dealer is liable, not you?

Thanks so much.

Cheers

you could always take the engine vin numbers and so forth and do your own search via some place i cant remember for $40bucks?? or so if your not completely satisifed. they give you written documentation that its not stolen or financed.

you could always take the engine vin numbers and so forth and do your own search via some place i cant remember for $40bucks?? or so if your not completely satisifed. they give you written documentation that its not stolen or financed.

I thought thats what VicRoads did?!?! :thumbsup:

I found this good site

http://www.consumer.vic.gov.au/CA256EB5000...rivate+sellers~

B1, Maybe what you're talking about is the Vehicle Securities Register. Yeah, I plan on getting all the documentation from Vicroads/VSR before I buy.

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...