Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, my name is Michael, resident in SA, pretty new to SAU and wondering if the team can help me this..

Theres a skyline r34 GTT i am suppose to buy this week except when I look at the pictures again the engine it looks different from other R34 turbocharged engines.

He seller said the neo cover is missing fair enough but it looks like a r33 turbocharged engine.

I will show you some pictures soon, but also I asked some guys to run a nissan fast vin check and it says Skyline GT, from here I assume it was a non-turbo then dropped a 33 turbocharged?

any help would much be appreciated.

The picture with the circles around 2 components i believe to be the same as the r33.

I guess what I am trying to prove is that this car was a non turbo model to begin with and then the owner dropped a r33 turbocharged engine.

I posted the car I want to buy (has circles on components)

A r33 turbocharged

A r34 turbocharged (has neo cover)

and the vin check Dicer checked

post-49685-1207451325_thumb.jpg

post-49685-1207451334_thumb.jpg

post-49685-1207451340_thumb.jpg

post-49685-1207451345_thumb.png

it says in the vin check RB25DE. almost 100% sure this means race bread 2.5L double over head cam elec fuel inj... if it said rb25det then it would be a turbo... so my guess is he got him self a cheep non turbo 34.. droped a 33 rb25 in and is trying to flog it off :thumbsup:

id confirm that too, no electronic throttle actuator like the R34...its a series 2 R33 motor. Also the car, its a non turbo car....which if previously not changed it still has non turbo brakes i would imagine.

Edited by Ryanrb25

its origional r34 n/a engine with turbo parts from an r33 bolted on

check if the brakes are turbo ones and see if its got an lsd diff

some non turbo r34s have different colour interior as well

also does it have the 3 center guages?

im not 100% sure but i reckon ive seen this same car for sale on ebay sometime last year for 18k?

from the pictures it doesnt look like turbo calipers

the diff would be non lsd

doesnt have traction control

wont have hicas

the suspension would be n/a type (r33)

the dash was probably changed to fit the guages as well

id avoid it buddy

hm crap,,

this car has got a full exhaust set up, adjustable suspension, front mount and pod.

thats all i know of at the moment.

would this car not be worth getting? and what else/financially would this car need to get it up to a normal gt-t.

I have to go to sydney to check it out next week but if any opinion that its crap I will change my mind.

full exhaust set up, adjustable suspension, front mount and pod is a waste of time if u have non turbo brakes

is it even registered as a turbo/gtt?

good luck with it buddy

hope u make the right decision

btw i saw this car for sale on ebay in january 2007 i even saved the picture for reference coz it looked sus

the guy has had a hard time selling it

post-3895-1207474465_thumb.jpg

Why bother even thinking about a dodgied up car? I think it is an R33 engine, as the traction control throttles are missing. There are plenty of local examples for reasonable prices.

i can confirm that by looking at the pics that r34 has a r33 motor in it.....i wont buy it mate....look around and you will get one thats even better may be....go and ask around for local importers.....i know of Dave from Elite Auto Imports and from what i have heard he gets some wicked cars in.....maybe pay him a visit....last time i checked he had a R34 GTT for sale....PM if you want his details

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...