Jump to content
SAU Community

Using An R32 Gtr Gearbox In A Rwd Application.

GKTECH
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 4 months later...
Alf Proficient

Alf

Posted
Posted
can you share pictures of the out come? I need to see if it really work,.

Got mine in today, the box looks like a truck gearbox when bolted to the RB.

Installing it into the car (32 GTST Rb30det) was a pain. The bottom end and box was put in first as there was no room to do so with the head on.

No bashing was needed at any point and the shifter lines up with the hole as factory. The transmission crossmember is being mod'd atm more pics to come...

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd81/30...pg?t=1234614932

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd81/30...pg?t=1234614973

  • 4 years later...
migs Enthusiast

migs

Posted
Posted
hi im in the process of turning an r33gtr gerbox rwd
but i just need a little help
i have the transfer case off but what i need to know is what parts do i need and what parts do i dump?
its all still bolted together with the oil pump ect how do i about sapping all the transfer components off the shaft ?
Reecewashi Rookie

Reecewashi

Posted
Posted
hi im in the process of turning an r33gtr gerbox rwd

but i just need a little help

i have the transfer case off but what i need to know is what parts do i need and what parts do i dump?

its all still bolted together with the oil pump ect how do i about sapping all the transfer components off the shaft ?

  • 4 years later...
SLVR32GTR Community Regular

SLVR32GTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

Sorry to revive an old thread, but i am currently going down this path as well as im converting a 180sx rolling shell that i purchased to run the RB26 engine out of my GTR (its getting an upgrade) and converting the GTR 5 speed gearbox to use also.  Im all good with the transfer case modifications and have the shafts apart etc, my question is around the speed sensor.

Does anyone know what speed sensor to use in the transfer case?  The standard GTR one is obviously a cable driven sensor that connects to the speedo, but the 180sx dash uses the electrical type sensor.  I have heard that the Z32 sensor is compatible but havent been able to track one down as yet to test it out.  Im also going to be running an R32 GTS4 4.3 ratio diff so would be trying to find one with that calibration if possible.  The gearbox im converting is actually from a GTS4 as well, so the speed gear should be 4.3 already if they are different.

Cheers!

Edited by SLVR32GTR
  • 2 weeks later...
SLVR32GTR Community Regular

SLVR32GTR

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Griffin said:

I'm also looking at doing this and trying to work out how to get the speedo working in an r33 gtst.

From what i have found searching, i would say that the R33 GTR speedo sensor should work for you mate.  The R33 GTR sensor is electronic and will bolt straight into the 32 GTR transfer case as they are interchangeable.  I am looking to source one from Japan as i think it should solve my issue with getting a speed signal to the S13/180sx dash as well, i just may have to use a trim module to fine tune the accuracy. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TheBushKangaroo
      Hello fellow enthusiasts

      By TheBushKangaroo · Posted

      Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • MBS206
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • hypergear
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By hypergear · Posted

      Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
×
×
  • Create New...