Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Join SAUQld, stay in touch with the coolest 'liners around and enter in our skidpan days, track days with mountain runner and whatever other events come along, as long as you can get someone to drive you there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213789-brisbane-clubs/#findComment-3778253
Share on other sites

Yeah man, there's 2 main ones.

Both run out of Qld Raceway, one by QR themselves which has lots of varied cars, racers tend to be pretty serious sometimes.

The better one IMHO is trackday.com.au, run by an SAU member. Lots of events, includes motorkhana, theres the prospect of a couple of meets at Lakeside as well.

Mountainrunner sets it up, find him on SAU. Next one is May 14 (i think). There's a points series, if u race every one from now u wont have to drop an event and are eligible for full points.

PM me if u want more details

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213789-brisbane-clubs/#findComment-3780643
Share on other sites

That would be www.timeattack.com.au that Paul runs. He also does specific Skyline track days for us. We should also have CAMS affiliation soon to allow for CAMS licensing for our members, which will be the cheapest club in SEQ for a CAMS license and affiliation. That will allow you to enter the hillclimbs and motorkhana events set up by other clubs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213789-brisbane-clubs/#findComment-3780821
Share on other sites

the time attack series looks like just the thing im after thanks soo much i emailed he website i hope to get a email back soon in the meantime wat does my car need to get on the track do i ned cams to race in that?? any other issues i shud be aware of thanks so much guys.

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213789-brisbane-clubs/#findComment-3782645
Share on other sites

sliding is easy with no licence as long as you have someone to drive you there. QR runs prac nights on fri nights once a month and archerfeild every fortnight on wed night. all you need is an AASA licence for qr, archy you dont need anything

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213789-brisbane-clubs/#findComment-3782662
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. OK. I'll say the same thing I say to everyone. You do not have to use 100% throttle all the time.
    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
×
×
  • Create New...