Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think being awd you can put a little cheaper on the rear so long as up front you have a little better

i have the MAXXIS Z1 on the front and antyre up the rear i need new rubber on the rear so will probably get the maxxis v1

But awd makes no difference except with accelerating. I don't understand why people think awd is so great. The only thing you improve is traction when accelerating.

Your ability to turn, and stop is exactly the same.

I think being awd you can put a little cheaper on the rear so long as up front you have a little better

i have the MAXXIS Z1 on the front and antyre up the rear i need new rubber on the rear so will probably get the maxxis v1

Steve, I was wrong with what I was saying the other day. It was the MZ tyres that wore quickly and gave alot of road noise. It was then the MA tyres I tried next and they were much quieter and lasted a bit longer ... cheaper too.

:P

Going out for rubber now. :whistling:

I've had Nankangs on my last two Skylines. They're what I would call "good value" tyres, sure they're not the best tyres in the world but bang for buck they are bloody good. I'd prefer to pay $200 a corner then $400 a corner for at the most 5% better performance.

Regarding wet performance. The Nankang NSII's that I have now seems MUCH better in the wet then the ones I had 3 years ago. Mabey they've made some changes, because they used to be very average in the wet but now they seem fine?

Edited by Ionos
My clears back in the days gave awesome grip and lasted a shiatload longer then what these elcheapo Wanli's are going.....

Wanli is rock hard rubber/compound = no grip at all. On there only upside this will make them last a loooong time..

Ryan

maybe just go to that place on grand junction and hanson interchange.

I used to go there alot.

got about 4 sets from there.

you can basically walk around teh back and pick which set you want. If you have someone with you they usually pick out crap for you.

i was paying around 80 - 90 for bridgestones with 70 - 80% rubber.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...