Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think being awd you can put a little cheaper on the rear so long as up front you have a little better

i have the MAXXIS Z1 on the front and antyre up the rear i need new rubber on the rear so will probably get the maxxis v1

But awd makes no difference except with accelerating. I don't understand why people think awd is so great. The only thing you improve is traction when accelerating.

Your ability to turn, and stop is exactly the same.

I think being awd you can put a little cheaper on the rear so long as up front you have a little better

i have the MAXXIS Z1 on the front and antyre up the rear i need new rubber on the rear so will probably get the maxxis v1

Steve, I was wrong with what I was saying the other day. It was the MZ tyres that wore quickly and gave alot of road noise. It was then the MA tyres I tried next and they were much quieter and lasted a bit longer ... cheaper too.

:P

Going out for rubber now. :whistling:

I've had Nankangs on my last two Skylines. They're what I would call "good value" tyres, sure they're not the best tyres in the world but bang for buck they are bloody good. I'd prefer to pay $200 a corner then $400 a corner for at the most 5% better performance.

Regarding wet performance. The Nankang NSII's that I have now seems MUCH better in the wet then the ones I had 3 years ago. Mabey they've made some changes, because they used to be very average in the wet but now they seem fine?

Edited by Ionos
My clears back in the days gave awesome grip and lasted a shiatload longer then what these elcheapo Wanli's are going.....

Wanli is rock hard rubber/compound = no grip at all. On there only upside this will make them last a loooong time..

Ryan

maybe just go to that place on grand junction and hanson interchange.

I used to go there alot.

got about 4 sets from there.

you can basically walk around teh back and pick which set you want. If you have someone with you they usually pick out crap for you.

i was paying around 80 - 90 for bridgestones with 70 - 80% rubber.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few more recent pics
    • full send the cnut, do this   fark the wrapping and/or stick on siet. These guys are the ones to go to: https://www.realthermo.com.au/  
    • Just had a look, they don't. Fuelling on the base map is purely alpha-N, and the ignition table is MAP. Remember it's just a base map to get the car moving  
    • Hi everyone, I’m Dave from Canberra. Here's a few pics of my 1992 R32 GTST coupe which I imported back in 2006. Only mods so far are HKS Hi-power cat back exhaust, K&N filter, ATC Volanti steering wheel, Pioneer stereo, amp and sub. This was my daily driver up until 2015 and sadly hasn’t been driven at all in the last 5 years due to marriage, work, and kids taking up most of my time and spare cash.As such its in need of a bit of TLC and one of my goals for this year is to get it back to running condition and maybe look into club/historic rego. I’ve joined SAU so I can ask a few questions along the way (although I promise to google Current Problem +SAU beforehand!)
    • From talking to the mx5 guys the NC doesn't actually need bonnet vents like the earlier NA and NB models, due to a better designed cooling system and undertray design There's plenty of them used as street cars and weekend track toys running anywhere from around 170 to 250kw with stock non vented bonnets, I initially was going to get some bonnet vents, but, as they are not actually required, I'll put vents on hold for a while and just monitor temps, though I do need to get something to actually monitor engine oil temps though, coolant temp can be pulled from the OBD2, but the oil gauge in the car is not actual oil temp, it is only a calculation based off coolant temp and RPM ☹️ They do recommend upgrading the radiator, which I have already done with a triple pass, and the only other thing they recommend for a street car is heat management, like I talked about above to protect bits in the engine bay from radiant heat, and to either replace the nearly 20 year old plastic coolant expansion tank, which I have done, or get a aftermarket alloy jobbie for some bling They did also say that if I wanted to track the car on occasion a oil cooler and sump baffle would be required, and as I already have had a sump baffle installed when the engine was out......... I'm going to get a oil cooler with a thermostat....... just in case I do eventually track the car, but probably not, but still maybe...🤪
×
×
  • Create New...