Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any know what clearances HKS pistons (87mm step 2) like to run??

i know all about the rule of thumb clearances but some pistons like a lil more than others (material dependant)

so i need to know what clearances the HKS step 2 87mm pistons runs on an rb26

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213901-hks-piston-clearances/
Share on other sites

Torque plate hone etc, Tom at BD4's said to me they build em with 2 thou or less piston to bore clearance (HKS pistons).

I can only think they could go that tight if they are a high silicon content piston, and barrel shaped when cold like TOMEI pistons.

Also made to suit jap style tight engines, not yankee 10 thou or so clearance lol.

Correct me if I'm wrong guys...

Cheers.

well i need to know the exact clearances as im not building a slapper motor. this thing will be making some serious power so it needs to be exact.

Thanks for ur advice dude. hope anyone else has something to add?

i tried that already and there was no spec sheet apparently.. and i called up hks and they couldnt help me.. they said that i needed to purchase the pistons directly frmo them for specs, otherwise no.

so hks australia wont help me, even thou i have theyre product.. nowhere else to turn to but the forums and hope for the best :)

i tried that already and there was no spec sheet apparently.. and i called up hks and they couldnt help me.. they said that i needed to purchase the pistons directly frmo them for specs, otherwise no.

so hks australia wont help me, even thou i have theyre product.. nowhere else to turn to but the forums and hope for the best :)

i'd ring hks australia up again and abuse the shit out of them untill you get the spec sheet.. if not.. get your machinist to ring up and ask for them

2-2.5 thou

Depends on how hard the car is going to be run.

I would use a larger PTB for a tracked car over an all street setup..something like 3-3.5thou

Teflon coated skirts work well with tight PTB figures...however are not required.

the wont be running too hard i dont think. im really just after a bulletproof bottom end rather than the highest power figure in the world... reliability i think is the word?? :D hahah

im gonna go with 2.5 thou then and i always use teflon additives (slick 50 and my does it work) as well as top quality oils :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...