Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

interesting idea with the 1piece dump/front pipe w/ screamer & the additional pipe to recirculate it for legalness.

:down:

roughly how much would you be looking at for one to suit rb20/25 ?

VERY NICE, great welds and looks very neat.

Top idea, I have wanted to have this done for a while - may get something similar to this done when I take my dump pipe off to get some copies made soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213915-my-custom-work/#findComment-3784304
Share on other sites

pics - try resizing them so they arent so large

or use the attach option under more options.

so this was an off the shelf item you adapted? post up some details of what you did

ok man ill try and suss tat out cheers

ok i staired at the dump front for ages and then it camed to me how to do it it was a lot of trial and error first i cut of the plumb back split pipe and then i tryed all these ways to fit it on the other side it is a very close fit its actually hitting a hose in the bay so i had to heat wrap it i used most of the part that i cut off to go on the other side i had to add some of my own its a long process i custom one of these things cause i didnt really want to hack into a brand new dump lol but it work out for the better

ill try answer any question if anyone has any!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213915-my-custom-work/#findComment-3786531
Share on other sites

interesting idea with the 1piece dump /front pipe w/ screamer & the additional pipe to recirculate it for legalness.

:D

roughly how much would you be looking at for one to suit rb20/25 ?

hey mate the rough cost to custom one for rb20/25 around $250-300roughyi got quoted around $550 to do mine at and exhaust placed i told them to stick it lol its really just time in setting everything up and getting it all right if you want onr let me know and we can sort out some thing im petty busy for a while thou atm im custom making my mates exhaust for his r34 and they dont sll split dump fronts so i have to make the whole thing

ill post up some pics with process of it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213915-my-custom-work/#findComment-3786566
Share on other sites

A few days ago me and my mate were talking about screamer pipes, so i checked online for a rb20 one and they were priced at $280, so i thought to myself why not just buy a split dump pipe and get it cut and welded. But never thought of having flanges there to stay legal or not.

But good work mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213915-my-custom-work/#findComment-3790855
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 11 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...