Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As SLED said shimming your valve spring will reduce the amount of lift you can achieve before you encounter binding issues. So it will depend on what lift cams you have as to how much you can shim them if you can at all.

dude, im not saying your wrong or right etc.... i just want to clarify the rb20 that they have built was a lazy engine that was replaced my a fresh one out of a customers car, which had been laying around, they put it in an s14 shell, used a whole heap of parts laying around and FOR A LAUGH tried to find the limits of the motor, It was over a few beers, a few mates and a few laughs after hours and im pretty sure they intended to blow it up, It was by no means an example of what they'd deliver to a customer in any way...

do a search man, i personally wouldn't run any more than 17-18psi which a thicker headgasket.

sweet, so 7-10 would be safe with a decent tune then i guess

As SLED said shimming your valve spring will reduce the amount of lift you can achieve before you encounter binding issues. So it will depend on what lift cams you have as to how much you can shim them if you can at all.

I realise that but just wondering who shimmed them and to what tolerance, cost involved etc.

Im installing 264/9.0 cams into my RB20 which are direct drop in for clearances but wondering if its worth shimming stock springs, buying upgraded items or just let it be :)

Cheers Ben

QUOTE(jager @ 3 Jun 2008, 04:13 PM)

mate seems like turbo tune ain't change much since back in 05/06 they overtuned my engine which almost went bang, before i ripped it out and put a new one in then took it blackwood dyno got a tune from them sudden;y more power better response and it didn't wanna go bang anymore,

then they told me wasn't us it was u!!!

for the 1500 bucks i spent on rb25det including buying and installing and tuning (only 40,000ks on engine) i didn't bother trying to chase it up legally would have cost me to much then

thats my glowing recommendation for turbo tune love ya!!

dude, im not saying your wrong or right etc.... i just want to clarify the rb20 that they have built was a lazy engine that was replaced my a fresh one out of a customers car, which had been laying around, they put it in an s14 shell, used a whole heap of parts laying around and FOR A LAUGH tried to find the limits of the motor, It was over a few beers, a few mates and a few laughs after hours and im pretty sure they intended to blow it up, It was by no means an example of what they'd deliver to a customer in any way...

i realise that it was for fun, i was just dissapointed how they handled the situation on my vehicle and because of my dissapointment i want to put my 2c in, however if they treated all there customers the way they treated me they wouldn't have a business so obviously i was that one unlucky customer, as stated above, really how am i going to prove it was them not me or vice versa, so i cut my losses and moved on.

however i am intitled to give my opinion on how i was served

and i leave it at that as this isn't a thread about me

I realise that but just wondering who shimmed them and to what tolerance, cost involved etc.

Im installing 264/9.0 cams into my RB20 which are direct drop in for clearances but wondering if its worth shimming stock springs, buying upgraded items or just let it be :)

Cheers Ben

Ben unless you're planning on revving the thing alot more than it was designed, go with the stock springs. Shimming is never a good idea and is usually a cheap way out of avoiding valve float at extremely high rpm. We used to see boy racers either shim the crap out of their springs and end up breaking overhead gear due to binding or others that would use double & triple springs which would end up pounding weltite inserts deep into alloy head chambers.

If you are seeking extremely high rpm though, you'll also need to think of upgrades on your internals to be able to cope. Stock springs would be fine if you're only going an extra 1000rpm or so.

i realise that it was for fun, i was just dissapointed how they handled the situation on my vehicle and because of my dissapointment i want to put my 2c in, however if they treated all there customers the way they treated me they wouldn't have a business so obviously i was that one unlucky customer, as stated above, really how am i going to prove it was them not me or vice versa, so i cut my losses and moved on.

however i am intitled to give my opinion on how i was served

and i leave it at that as this isn't a thread about me

yea thats fair enough champ, im not defending anyone but turbo tune have been there for many years so they have to be doing something right i suppose.

Ben unless you're planning on revving the thing alot more than it was designed, go with the stock springs. Shimming is never a good idea and is usually a cheap way out of avoiding valve float at extremely high rpm. We used to see boy racers either shim the crap out of their springs and end up breaking overhead gear due to binding or others that would use double & triple springs which would end up pounding weltite inserts deep into alloy head chambers.

If you are seeking extremely high rpm though, you'll also need to think of upgrades on your internals to be able to cope. Stock springs would be fine if you're only going an extra 1000rpm or so.

On the other motor limiter was set at 8850 and probably keep it there with this one as well with the additional parts (cams, injectors, z32 etc) to go in. Other than that its stock as a rock and will stay that way *touch wood* but will be a little stronger than last time eg: can run more boost/timing :happy:

I think i'll just drop the cams in and see how i go from there with the stock springs for now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
    • Just putting it out there, that's a decent list. You would be better off *not* doing *any* of that and buying someone else's modded car. Like mine. Or anybody else's. Yes it's lotto dependent and all this and that but that 70K (remember, double your guesses) could go elsewhere. Keep it stock, save your money, go lowball @Dose Pipe Sutututu :p
    • Does not mean what you think it means. The continual rising coefficient is the coefficient of friction that continues to rise with increasing temperature. Not "rising during a single stop", except inasmuch as the brakes should get hotter during a single stop. The RR would not be the best choice for a streeter. Yeah....no it's not. JAX would rummage around in the "shit pads we use for all shitboxen that come in here" and install those.
    • @Kinkstaah I've got my list.. but most of them is to do if I ever win the lotto
×
×
  • Create New...