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As SLED said shimming your valve spring will reduce the amount of lift you can achieve before you encounter binding issues. So it will depend on what lift cams you have as to how much you can shim them if you can at all.

dude, im not saying your wrong or right etc.... i just want to clarify the rb20 that they have built was a lazy engine that was replaced my a fresh one out of a customers car, which had been laying around, they put it in an s14 shell, used a whole heap of parts laying around and FOR A LAUGH tried to find the limits of the motor, It was over a few beers, a few mates and a few laughs after hours and im pretty sure they intended to blow it up, It was by no means an example of what they'd deliver to a customer in any way...

do a search man, i personally wouldn't run any more than 17-18psi which a thicker headgasket.

sweet, so 7-10 would be safe with a decent tune then i guess

As SLED said shimming your valve spring will reduce the amount of lift you can achieve before you encounter binding issues. So it will depend on what lift cams you have as to how much you can shim them if you can at all.

I realise that but just wondering who shimmed them and to what tolerance, cost involved etc.

Im installing 264/9.0 cams into my RB20 which are direct drop in for clearances but wondering if its worth shimming stock springs, buying upgraded items or just let it be :)

Cheers Ben

QUOTE(jager @ 3 Jun 2008, 04:13 PM)

mate seems like turbo tune ain't change much since back in 05/06 they overtuned my engine which almost went bang, before i ripped it out and put a new one in then took it blackwood dyno got a tune from them sudden;y more power better response and it didn't wanna go bang anymore,

then they told me wasn't us it was u!!!

for the 1500 bucks i spent on rb25det including buying and installing and tuning (only 40,000ks on engine) i didn't bother trying to chase it up legally would have cost me to much then

thats my glowing recommendation for turbo tune love ya!!

dude, im not saying your wrong or right etc.... i just want to clarify the rb20 that they have built was a lazy engine that was replaced my a fresh one out of a customers car, which had been laying around, they put it in an s14 shell, used a whole heap of parts laying around and FOR A LAUGH tried to find the limits of the motor, It was over a few beers, a few mates and a few laughs after hours and im pretty sure they intended to blow it up, It was by no means an example of what they'd deliver to a customer in any way...

i realise that it was for fun, i was just dissapointed how they handled the situation on my vehicle and because of my dissapointment i want to put my 2c in, however if they treated all there customers the way they treated me they wouldn't have a business so obviously i was that one unlucky customer, as stated above, really how am i going to prove it was them not me or vice versa, so i cut my losses and moved on.

however i am intitled to give my opinion on how i was served

and i leave it at that as this isn't a thread about me

I realise that but just wondering who shimmed them and to what tolerance, cost involved etc.

Im installing 264/9.0 cams into my RB20 which are direct drop in for clearances but wondering if its worth shimming stock springs, buying upgraded items or just let it be :)

Cheers Ben

Ben unless you're planning on revving the thing alot more than it was designed, go with the stock springs. Shimming is never a good idea and is usually a cheap way out of avoiding valve float at extremely high rpm. We used to see boy racers either shim the crap out of their springs and end up breaking overhead gear due to binding or others that would use double & triple springs which would end up pounding weltite inserts deep into alloy head chambers.

If you are seeking extremely high rpm though, you'll also need to think of upgrades on your internals to be able to cope. Stock springs would be fine if you're only going an extra 1000rpm or so.

i realise that it was for fun, i was just dissapointed how they handled the situation on my vehicle and because of my dissapointment i want to put my 2c in, however if they treated all there customers the way they treated me they wouldn't have a business so obviously i was that one unlucky customer, as stated above, really how am i going to prove it was them not me or vice versa, so i cut my losses and moved on.

however i am intitled to give my opinion on how i was served

and i leave it at that as this isn't a thread about me

yea thats fair enough champ, im not defending anyone but turbo tune have been there for many years so they have to be doing something right i suppose.

Ben unless you're planning on revving the thing alot more than it was designed, go with the stock springs. Shimming is never a good idea and is usually a cheap way out of avoiding valve float at extremely high rpm. We used to see boy racers either shim the crap out of their springs and end up breaking overhead gear due to binding or others that would use double & triple springs which would end up pounding weltite inserts deep into alloy head chambers.

If you are seeking extremely high rpm though, you'll also need to think of upgrades on your internals to be able to cope. Stock springs would be fine if you're only going an extra 1000rpm or so.

On the other motor limiter was set at 8850 and probably keep it there with this one as well with the additional parts (cams, injectors, z32 etc) to go in. Other than that its stock as a rock and will stay that way *touch wood* but will be a little stronger than last time eg: can run more boost/timing :happy:

I think i'll just drop the cams in and see how i go from there with the stock springs for now.

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