Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all :wavey:

Got a problem with my stereo, everytime i turn it up (to decent volume) the speakers cut out. I have a JVC headunit, splits in front, 6X9's in rear which run off 1 amp, a inline fuse which has volt reader and spliter from single to twin and Pioneer sub that runs off another amp. I've tried replacing the remote wire for the speakers amp, didn't work. I've tried swapping with a different amp, didn't work. :down: It's only the speakers that cut out, can still here the sub thumping away. Was considering redoing the wiring for the amp next, does anyone have any other suggestions to my problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214304-problem-with-stereo/
Share on other sites

hey man have you tried just running the 6 by 9's by itself and see if it cuts out.. or just the splits by it self.

Yeh at the moment i only have the 6X9's running through the amp, still got the same problem.

Most likely your fuse and/or cable isn't large enough for the amp to run at full capacity(which is why it works on lower volume).

Check the connection is secure on the power line splitter also.

Cheers mate will check it out when i get back home.

  • 3 weeks later...

+1 for thermal overload.

Also, what grounding have you got on the effected Amp??

Remember, dont ground 2 amps at the same point, use 2 different grounding points, make sure they both have strong contact points, and the cable is sufficient.

B.

is your 4 channel amp overheating (thermal overload)? touch it they can get ridiculously hot after a good thrashing

Not sure, but even first thing it still cuts out.

+1 for thermal overload.

Also, what grounding have you got on the effected Amp??

Remember, dont ground 2 amps at the same point, use 2 different grounding points, make sure they both have strong contact points, and the cable is sufficient.

B.

Will have a look at this as, cable should be sufficient for ground. but i think they may be earthed out to the same point of contact.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
  • Create New...