Jump to content
SAU Community

Is It Advisable To Use Engine Flush After Every Oil Change?

jarthel

By jarthel,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

i would use it once and then not use it again for a very long time. many people would even suggest not using it at all. you are basically putting solvents (kero?) in your engine which thins the oil. the best bet is to use good synthetic oil and change it very regularly.

jarthel Enthusiast

jarthel

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i would use it once and then not use it again for a very long time. many people would even suggest not using it at all. you are basically putting solvents (kero?) in your engine which thins the oil. the best bet is to use good synthetic oil and change it very regularly.

how about:

1. drain old oil

2. engine flush

3. liter of cheap oil to clean it again

4. 5L of syntethic oil

raps86 Rising Star

raps86

Posted
Posted

if u use engine flush put it in before draining the old oil. put it in take the car 4 bout a half hour drive to get it throught everywhere then drain the oilfor at least 20min 2 let all the oil possible out then put sum synthetic oil in.

raps86 Rising Star

raps86

Posted
Posted

u will find that quite a few of tho oils now have sum sort of cleaning agent in them. in my old ss when i bought it i knew the oil hadnt being changed for a year. i draind it put castrol edge in it and 4 the 1st 2000ks it was taping its head off then done another change after 4000ks with the same oil and it was all sweet

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
Posted

A friend of mine used to work at nissan, anyway his brother had a piece of shit kingswood and was fixing some stuff on it, and serviced it fairly regularly (brother has no idea about cars) He replaced the rocker cover gasket as was leaking and noticed heaps of burnt on crap on the head. Anyway getting to the point he started using shell helix oil (they have in the big drums) and after a few services he had the rocker cover off again and noticed that where the oil was running it had cleaned alot of the areas up. Most good modern oils would do the same. So regular servicing with good oil is all you need.

  • 3 weeks later...
bumble_bee Rising Star

bumble_bee

Posted
Posted (edited)

as above:)

1. add oil flush to engine oil (wynns/nulon etc..-> a good brand)

2. turn on car and let it idle for a period of time... (every bottle says a different time..wynns ->15-30mins/nulon ->10-15mins)

3. drain old flushed oil when warn!!!! use a 14mm socket to undo and its anti-clock wise...

4. replace sump-plug washer, when all old oil all drain out, should take 5-10mins.. if that!! and put back in!!!

5. *MUST* replace oil filter (a must when using oil flush!!!!!!)

6. *MUST* replace engine oil, with good oil of your choice!! ( a must if you want your engine to run!! lol ) :cheers:

7. check ur dip-stick to see how much oil you've added, i believe rb25det is around 3.8L...(with a oil filter change)

8. put your engine oil cap back on..and shes ready to GO!!!

but there's no harm doing a engine flush like once or twice a year..just to make sure..

just did it to my r33 s2 and it just went past 100k's

seemed fine after...probl. do it again wen i hit 115 to 120k's..

hope this helps...

Edited by bumble_bee
Richieb Collaborator

Richieb

Posted
Posted

IMO..

If used from the first time, yep, use it.

BUT, as I have made more than one engine rattly having used it, I'm not sure wether it is a good idea on a good engine.

Generally this stuff is good for diesel engines IMO, and that is it.

Good rule is to use good oil, always run the engine to normal temp if you fire it up.

Lets just evaluate what this stuff does... it removes varnish type deposits too, and this CAN affect the compression. IT DID take enough out of the bores of a hydraulic valve lifter for me to actually make it rattle thereon. Admitedly the engine was nof unknown history.

Mate, the oils are pretty damn good now in the modern world, and there are additives in them to assist in engine cleanliness.

Not saying dont, but its your call.

GOOD OIL FILTER is very important though.

Just my 2c again!!

adamp_r32 Explorer

adamp_r32

Posted
Posted

I wouldnt even worry about using an engine flush, some people believe not to and other people swear by it. If you change your oil and filter every 5000 km's and use decent synthetic oil then u shouldnt have any problems. But dont put it in after u change your oil and filter because if u had a flush in it and ran the car with it in until its next oil change, i reckon it may do some harm. And if u do use it you only really have to run the engine for 15 minutes or so.

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted

I dont believe in engine flushing myself, it thins out the oil, and no matter how long you leave the engine oil draining, there will always be old engine oil with flush still left in the engine, mixing with the nice clean oil and fouling it up with the flushing agent.

Personally, for my first engine flush I do on a new (newly bought 2nd hand) car, I drain the oil, replace the filter with the cheapest reputable (valvaline or similar) filter, fill with new clean oil, and take the car for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature.

After it's reached temperature, I come back and do another oil change with proper synthetic oil, another new filter and then she's sweet from there on.

Doing it this way, the engine oil originally in the car is removed, new oil (not a shit oil, but not $90 oil) is run through the engine to flush out the old oil, then drained. Once that's done, the actual running oil is put in, and she's run on that from then on.

Each oil change after that is simply oil and filter every time with decent synthetic oils.

I used engine flush once, and it thinned the oil, took away the carbon and other impurities that where stopping tappet rattles and other issues, and the engine came out rattling like an old tractor, so never again, if it is running good, there is not need for flushing it completely.

B.

Tomei_Powered Rising Star

Tomei_Powered

Posted
Posted

NO. Its not advisable to flush your engine every engine oil service.

You will be changing your piston rings and bearings every 40,000 to 50,000kms.

Using high performance engine oils will do. Just keep a 8,000 to 10,000km engine oil service intervals for fully syn. oils you will be fine.

Cheers!

  • 2 weeks later...
Brokenz Community Regular

Brokenz

Posted
Posted

I know this is an old question but I used some supercheap auto flush on my sr20det motor and 10 minutes later 1 of the bearing started rattling. Cost me $500 to get new bearing shells fitted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.  
    • Randhj
      R34 4 door indicator and horn issue

      By Randhj · Posted

      Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Milkmun
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • PranK
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By PranK · Posted

      Gotta admit, I love the 20b Cosmo.
    • joshuaho96
      Nismo Super Coppermix Twin and R33 GTR transmission replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...