Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the idea behind facing subs backwards is all to do with "loading." it is possible to get up to a 3 db gain just by loading the sub off say the hatch in a hatch back. the idea is the subs and the car work together basically creating noise. the problem with loading a sub backwards in a sedan is, if i set the picture, in a hatch, the waves hit the back of the car, then basically bounce off a place in the roof, then into the front of the vehicle. the problem with loading it in a sedan, it bounces of the rear of th boot, to the boot lid, then basically back into the subs where it came from, causing cancellation. it works but is not as efficent. a way i have found that has worked time and time again is to face the subs towards the front of the vehicle, making the box so it seals the boot from the cabin, making the subs part of the cabin, and porting the box into the cab. this makes the cab smaller in terms of sound pressure level (SPL) and there is no problem with cancellation. it is hard to explain what i am rambleing on about over the internet, but i hope it helps in some respect. Take care all and happy "stereoing"

JR

  • 2 weeks later...

How much do people know about fibreglassing? or even just building replacement walls for the boot? The stock stuff on mine is a little hacked on one side, and seeing as i am putting in sub/amps in soon, thought it might be a good time to investigate getting in replaced. Do people get this kinda thing done at the audio shop? any idea on costs and details? It seems too time consuming/painful to try and measure it up myself. call me lazy

Damn thats a pretty nice website - love all the install's pics. Unfortunately i am in adelaide - bit far to go for some custom work. Is there anyway to get an idea of the cost of some of those installs? Also, anyone know of a equally impressive seeming place in SA?

try "GL Pro Sound" on Keilor Road in Niddrie, they are awesome, were at autosalon and have done rockford fosgates display car, eclipses display car etc etc, highly recommend them

Anthony - 9379 1222 (tell them nathan referred you and they will look after you)

hope that helps :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...