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  • 7 months later...

i know im bringing up the dead, but its better than making a new one.

is there any changes i should work with?

since im having ER34 N/A and i'm dropping off RB25DET NEO. what about the flywheel? pull push clutch, gearbox? turbo lines?

any more detail information could save my $$$ eventually.

cheers.

the whole undercar setup between N/A's and turbo's are difference. after picking out the differences, youll look at it and realise just how different the two models are...both look the part though :P

the whole undercar setup between N/A's and turbo's are difference. after picking out the differences, youll look at it and realise just how different the two models are...both look the part though :angry:

Tell me about it! Worse it seems if you own a Sedan ~_~ Unless of course if it's a GTV

R34 GT doesn't have HICAS (4 wheel steering) Traction Control (TCS) or Limited Slip Diff (LSD)

R34 GT does have an LSD as an option - Its on the original R34 Skyline brochure from Japan - RB25DE models only :P.

i read the manuals, it says the N/A one use R200V lsd type.

but how about the tie rod, castor rod, camber rod?

i know they have different rear suspension setup, does it means i have to look for a different rear swaybar and anti-rollbar as well?

well, at least im getting a r32 gtr brakes now.

cheers.

  • 1 month later...

Sorry to revive an old thread, but i thought it was better to revive one then to create another identical one. Basically im looking for a way to check if my engine is originally from a turbo or non turbo R33. eg if the person just bolted on turbo bits or if they changed the whole engine. I know my skyline was originally (factory) non turbo as the badges are blue, open diff (until i got to it...) and no hicas.

I know the compression seems to be the only difference and thus i will do a compression test once i get my compression tester back from my brother..

Can you tell anything from the engine number??

Mine is: 181875A

cheers guys.

Is there little-to-no lag? aka pretty much instant boost? Badges doesn't mean everything, but blue badges are typically on N/As.

Are the wheels and brakes R33 GTSt items? 4 stud wheels and 2 pot front and 1 pot rear calipers were the go on GTS, whereas GTSt has 5 stud wheels and 4 and 2 pot calipers.

I'm not entirely sure from the engine number, I would assume that you can get some info from it.

Is there any Queensland mod plate to evidence any engine change?

Could even be that the owner put blue badges to fool other people in the know into thinking that it's an N/A.. but then like you said open diff and no hicas... Not many people do bolt-on conversions.

Do you have pics of the engine bay and other areas to try and discern whether it's a bolt-on, engine conversion, or just a bit strange?

my Na r34 has red GT badges :) they were there when i bought it tho.

And for the R34's, isnt it like ER34 for the GT's and something like HR34 for GTT's?

You could also check the coil packs??? different coils between turbo and non turbo

p.s

in New Zealand you can search the number plate and it gives you all the information about the car and what it was imported as etc etc

Edited by R34 -_-

i think he wants to make sure that his engine hasn't been swapped, not if the car itself is orignally a turbo.

the easiest way to tell if it is a turbo motor that has had the turbo removed would be to put it on a dyno. if it makes over 100kw then it is a NA motor, LOL.

you could probably also look for blocked up oil and water lines. although i guess that you would be able to tell if it was originally a turbo motor just by driving it. if you test drove other NAs when you were buying yours then you would know straight away. a turbo converted to NA would be dramatically slower than a stock NA. if you get easily beaten by v6 commodores would be another indication, LOL

N-DAWG,

Yeh there is little or no lag coming onto boost, the wheels are the typical 5 stud r33 pattern. I know that the badges aren't everything though it was the complete absence of any sign of the hicas system which really set me off.

There are no modification plates on the chassis beyond the usual import plates. Thus im thinking that the conversion could have been completed before it was imported though Im really not sure. I'll grab some pics and post them up today.

R34- -,

I know about the coil packs, though they would be easy to switch them over.

What im looking at is seeing if the motor is a turbo or non turbo from factory. Reason for this is obviously about the compression ratio in the engine and my ability to boost it up. As it sits I can't see anything on the engine itself that points me in either direction...

Cheers guys

that will only tell you what sort of motor it was supposed to have (turbo or non turbo and what capacity). won't tell you the engine number to see if it has had a replacement engine put in that was the same type though.

  • 1 month later...

Hate to tell you, but FAST won't tell you what vehicle an engine number came from: However i can certainly help out HERE

This is my data on the above.

I am releasing a website next month dedicated to RB's with a much more comprehensive list.

As for differences the heads are a different casting in R34 non turbo to turbo, have smaller ports and runners, which is to do with torque.

if your more interested, PM me and i have allot more information.

Hate to tell you, but FAST won't tell you what vehicle an engine number came from: However i can certainly help out HERE

This is my data on the above.

I am releasing a website next month dedicated to RB's with a much more comprehensive list.

As for differences the heads are a different casting in R34 non turbo to turbo, have smaller ports and runners, which is to do with torque.

if your more interested, PM me and i have allot more information.

just so you know, if your website mentions RB standing for "race bred" i'm going to find the server it is located on and set it on fire.

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