Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Goto http://www.au-hackershardware.com they have good prices and will send the chips COD so you wont get ripped. Of cource you still have to find someone to put it in, if you have an early model ps2 its a bastard of a job. It took my friend who is a l33t solderer 3 hours to chip mine with a messiah, he said it was the hardest thing hes ever done. It workes perfect though :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21448--/page/2/#findComment-455053
Share on other sites

dont buy chips elsewhere will cost you more as we get them same price or cheaper than they do wholesale and add our installation cost, if u get it elsewhere u pay them wholesale + their profdit then our installation fee lol

and if it takes 3 hours to do a installation the dude is not l33t lol, i can do one properly all tested in less than 40mins (thats taking my time doing it properly) probably can do in 15mins if i rush

Bailylsd... get the messiah 2, please quote me the SCPH number form the back of your unit so i can give you a price (its difficulty changes the price as some models are harder/easier)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21448--/page/2/#findComment-455790
Share on other sites

v3s fastest ive done 1 is in 25mins... qwhich is pretty good, i usually spend 1 hour on a v3 to make saure those a-i wires dont come loose hehe... nice little fine bitches of legs those things are, u couldnt understand the hours ive spent tracing tracks to find alternate points for those dvd wires... they all end up on another chip with worse legs to solder to underneath!!! lol

but yer if ya wanna see me do a v3 in 25mins im happy to show you.. but i do charge accordingly :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21448--/page/2/#findComment-455866
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
    • Right, but if you replace the pump gears + put a spline or sine drive gear on the crank on a Nismo/OEM/N1/etc pump at that point do you really still want more flow/oil pressure? Let's say this is a the aforementioned "keep it simple" build, no more than ~400 kW at the crank.
    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
×
×
  • Create New...