Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahah, i remember u now.. ur the guy who thinks the 4wd system on a gtr has almost no losses hahaha yer good one mate

everyone here knows u dont know anything at all.. so why even bother puttin in ur say when its always bullshit anyway?

maybe u should just sit back, be a mod and just let the experts handle this department :D

hahah, i remember u now.. ur the guy who thinks the 4wd system on a gtr has almost no losses hahaha yer good one mate

everyone here knows u dont know anything at all.. so why even bother puttin in ur say when its always bullshit anyway?

maybe u should just sit back, be a mod and just let the experts handle this department :D

Funny that the whole drivetrain loss has been proven with back to back results on 400awkw+ :ninja:

I don't think you've searched and read them yet have you?

I wouldn't call you an expert at all, far from it.

well it hasnt been proven :D

its actually been proven by the guys who invented measuring units.. u know.. those guys called ENGINEERS??

and uve been proven wrong as well by many other forum users so dont bother arguing dude..

the day a drive train has minimal losses, will be the day that fuel usage drops to like 2lt/100 in a 300kw car

but as it stands by today, the loss is about 30% and i wont bother gettin into it with u, because uve already been proven

wrong by everyone else on this forum :ninja:

The exhaust gasket between the dump/turbo was reused.

Im running standard boost 10psi and always have. Just full exhaust and smic thats it.

Cheers all for the comments, ill replace both gaskets on the front/dump and see if that reduces the sound.

Thanks :laugh:

after you do that please let us know whether it still makes the sound, double check it too just to make sure it's not leaking, so we know if there really was a leak or not for reference..

i guess everyone who's posted here are just trying to help out, everyone's got different thoughts from their own experience, hence different approach and different comments..

everyone should be entitled to have their own say, lets just read it carefully to make sure there's no misunderstanding, and respect it, if you do think otherwise, just say what you think but i dont think there's a need to aim your fire at anyone if their opinion's different to yours.

:)

It's fine.

Yes of course you will loose low end response. You've got a much bigger surface area on your new pipe, so it will radiate heat alot quicker than the stock unit, reducing exhaust velocity and therefore torque. However as revs increase, the extra flow outweighs this, and you begin to make more torque.

The noise is probably normal. Turbos make sounds like that. :D

It will be a leak of some sort.I had this exact same dump pipe on my car(this exact one in question) i had no weird noises at all.The only noise that was different was i could now hear the turbo spool through the thinner wall of the dump compared to the thicker stock one.

EDIT: Maybe this weird noise you hear is the sound of the turbo spooling??? Just louder now that you have the dump pipe in.

well, I bet its the gaskets between the turbo and manifold.

Nismoid is right, the head to manifold gasket makes a tractor sound.

The Manifold to turbo gaskets make the high pitched sound. How do I know? Because mine is doing it, my studs are stretching and I need to keep tightening them.

There is even a little brown spot where its leaking. It sounds like a kettle, or like how the redneck bushman put 2 gunm leaves together and blow through them and make that stupid sound.

Thats what happens when the gaskets are loose - they make that squeal.

I'm in the process of removing the turbo and changing mine too.

Bumblebee, you may say you have done 1000's of cars, which I doubt you've done 1000's of Turbo charged Skylines, but do you hae one that has had a turbo upgrade, makes some power, and is actually doing it all the time to know what you're talking about?

I doubt it.

  • 2 weeks later...
I hope you are not mistaking this noise for the louder turbo spool noise as a result of fitting this dump pipe. :D

sound doesnt worry me, i was more concerned about the less response in the lower rev range, but im used to it now hehe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
×
×
  • Create New...