Diy: Change Your Own Brake Pads (front And Rear)

[Duncan]

nope the same

[Abo Bob]

Furthe update.

A track day is what it took to get rid of the rear squealing. It's 95% gone now.

Also I have just changed the front pads and so now I know what those shims are supposed to look like because they were there on the front brakes. I now know I didn't throw the rear ones out. They just weren't there.

[SAUmember888]

What happened to all the instruction photos? I cant see them anymore?

[nsta]

same here, i cant see the instuction photos now???

[benm]

Ok for the people still using this thread i've just fixed the pictures (linked to my gallery pics rather than personal webspace).

[cowie165]

Cheers Ben

I have just fitted RB74s and have enjoyed squeal-free driving. I used CRC Anti-Squeal Paste (orange stuff in a bottle) and bedded the pads as advised Genesis' thread ( 2x 50->20 medium effort, 6x 100->70 high effort, 15min cool-off).

As far as bleeding goes, AutoOne and other places sell one man bleeder kits (known as a switchblade j/k) and they are very easy to use. Bleed from the furthest caliper (from the brake master) to the closest, then bleed the ABS (front nut then rear nut). It may take a drive to have the air settle and (like me) it will need to be done again.

Mark

[cowie165]

Just to clarify, that bleeding order is:

Rear left

Rear right

Front left

Front right

Disable immobiliser/alarm

Disconnect battery

Front ABS

Rear ABS

Reconnect battery

Enable immobiliser/alarm

[philta]

i dont get how u guys are bleeding ur brakes, i use the old "press, release and fill" over and over till i see new fluids and go to the nex caliper.

can some1 explained the driving and bleeding process, i dont feel safe braking at 100km while there hardly any brake presure. or am i understanding this wrong

[cowie165]

Firstly, I no longer believe in a 'one-man' bleeder. If guys can do it solo, then awesome, but I tried twice by myself and couldn't bleed it properly. With two people, we did it quickly and correctly.

philta it's important to lock the bleed nipple whilst the brake pedal is depressed. Have your mate hold the hose to the nipple whilst you pump the pedal till the air stops coming out. Brake fluid is cheap so don't be stingy Better to pump too many times and sort your brakes first go.

Once the hose shows all the air has been pumped out of that line, hold the brake pedal to the floor whilst your sidekick tightens the bleed nipple. Follow the bleed order I posted in post #67 and you'll be sorted in no time.

For me, when I did it solo I needed to pump the brake pedal two or three times prior to ANY braking. After the two-man attempt, it worked first go and felt as good as after a mechanic did it last year.

Hope that helps mate.

[gts25t4door]

When bleeding brakes it is best to use a break bleeding tool. This is a like a vacuum that attaches to the bleeding nipple and sucks through the old fluid whilst remembering to top up the resivure to allow new fluid to flow.

What this does is not allow the breaks master cylinder piston to push past its "normal" working area, so this will keep the master cylinder free from potential damage from the lip of the "normal" working area.

[ZENNON]

Ok for the people still using this thread i've just fixed the pictures (linked to my gallery pics rather than personal webspace).

errr broken again (must e because they are moving galaries...)

can you pls just upload them into the first post??

[RBwhatever]

There is a step missing in this DIY guide. I found out the hard way and had a seal go in my master cylinder. You can read about my dramas in here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=174008

Anyway here's a link to the bendix brake fitting guide. Pay particular attention to step 10 as this is the step that wasn't incorporated in the DIY guide.

http://www.bendix.com.au/Text/116433222907...-fit-Brake-Pads

10

Clamp the brake hose and open the bleed screw on the caliper. Use a bleed hose to catch excess brake fluid in a suitable container as you push the pistons back into the caliper. Pistons should be pushed back by hand or using a piston retraction tool. Ensure all pistons can move without binding. Take care not to expose skin, clothing or paintwork to brake fluid.

Calipers with an integral park brake often require an alternate method to retract the piston. Consult the manufacturer's instructions.

[Bass Junky]

Anyone got any D.I.Ys for

Rear Rotor, Pads and Handbrake shoe changing?

[Fry_33]

I changed my brake rotors and pads on the weekend as well as bleeding the fluid. Thought I'd post up some pics and things I found helped.

I saw this good Rotor Swap Tutorial afterward I had finished but had a pretty good idea of what to do anyway.

One thing extra I did was to use a bit of sand paper to rub over the rear parking brake shoes to freshen up the friction surface.

I bought one of the one man bleeder kits and it worked great. I had always been a bit worried about bleeding brake fluid but as long as you are careful its easy.

NOTE: Brake Fluid loves to eat your paint so be very careful not to spill it. If you do clean it up when it happens.

As mentioned earlier in the thread the bleeding order is.

(Start with the wheel furthest from the master brake cylinder and work towards it.)

Rear left

Rear right

Front left

Front right

Disable immobiliser/alarm

Disconnect battery

Front ABS

Rear ABS

Reconnect battery

Enable immobiliser/alarm

I used a small surynge that I got for free at my local chemist and removed brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir. Once it was down to the MIN mark I topped it up with fresh fluid and put the cap back on the reservoir.

Here is a rear caliper showing the bleeder nipple. Just gently pull off the rubber boot.

Put the bleeder kit together and connect the clear hose to the nipple.

Now use the magnet on the bottle and attach it to the car somewhere HIGHER than the caliper. Use a spanner (9mm?? can't remember exactly) to losen the nipple. This isn't much, only takes 1/4 turn or so. You will probably see the fluid enter the clear hose a little.

Now go to the drivers seat and pump the pedal 3-4 times. If the pedal is hard you may need to loosen the nipple a little more.

KEEP AN EYE OUT AND MAKE SURE THE FLUID LEVEL IN THE RESERVOIR DOESN'T GO BELOW THE MIN MARK.

Go and check the bottle and see if its getting full. If its full, tighten the nipple off, attach the bottle to somewhere LOWER than the

caliper and remove the clear hose. Empty the bottle.

Check the fluid level in the reservoir again and top up if required. (remember to put that cap back on).

I did this at least two times for every calpier. I think it is possible to get different coloured fluids which would help to know when it's fully bled.

Just work your way around the car in the order shown above.

I changed my rear rotors, pads and bled the rears and then did the front. That way I only need to jack up each end once.

Now I just need to bed in my pads..

Edited August 3, 2007 by Fry_33

[Julzillionaire]

i found for squeky brakes DONT USE THE SPRAY ON STUFF it only last 30 minutes... i found sanding, even rubbing on the concrete or putting scratches in with a screw driver works