Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-t Vs R33 Gts-t


Recommended Posts

hi guys - just after your thoughts on which model will suit better.

it will be a daily driver with the occasional track day or autocross.

my current car is an xr6t - so am concerned the rb20 will lack some power (but will be better on fuel)

the 33 is obviously a tad newer and more powerful but will cost more to run as a daily drive.

on a side note - do the rb's suffer any oil starvation issues under cornering? or should they be fine on the occasional track day?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 165
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hi guys - just after your thoughts on which model will suit better.

it will be a daily driver with the occasional track day or autocross.

my current car is an xr6t - so am concerned the rb20 will lack some power (but will be better on fuel)

the 33 is obviously a tad newer and more powerful but will cost more to run as a daily drive.

on a side note - do the rb's suffer any oil starvation issues under cornering? or should they be fine on the occasional track day?

Depends on how old you like your cars...Do not underestimate an R32 GTST compared to your XR6....as gutless as R32s are off boost...when the revs are there they are certainly capable of giving the XR6 a fright.I know my old one did.Fuel economy is nothing special...it runs lower comp than a R33...As much as I Love R32s I would recommend the R33...fresher car for close to the same money, lots more low end torque also

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so similar in performance because of the extra weight in the 33?

i dont underestimate the power of the 32 - i've just become accustomed to having the 450nm from 2k rpm in the xr6t. lazy power.

im just a tad under 6 foot - will a 32 with sunroof have enough room for a helmet?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

u can under estimate the r32 gtst, unless it has mods such as turbo, cooler, exhaust..

most ppl just do a cooler and exhaust mod, and they are so bloody slow its not funny. i was going to buy one @ one stage when i had my rx7, and i made the mistake of driving my rx7 to the road test.. it was a fairly stock gtst with cooler and exhaust mods only runnin 10psi...

it was the most disappointing drive of my life. Driving an Integra Type R was more exciting then again, they are faster stock for stock.

until u do mods like turbos and so forth, they arent even worth a mention.

The R33 on the other hand, has enough torque (read 340nm+.. dont know exact figure but im sure its more than 340nm) and power from factory to give ur xr6t a good run for its money.. factor in exhaust and cooler upgrades and some boost and they can be pretty darn fast..

Ive never liked the R33 gtst.. ever but i gotta say that they are a far superior car to the r32 gtst in every single way

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would pick a RB25 over a RB20 any day of the week

the RB20 does very pretty hard but wat ive noticed to be its biggest let down is when u start modifying for more power is the RB20 doesnt spool up turbo's very well

ive driven RB20's with GT30's and they have big lag where as if u bolt a GT35 to a Rb25 it isnt no where near as laggy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 2.0 litre inline 6 motor dates back to the Hakosuka GTR (1969-1972) with a N/A 2.0 litre inline 6,

which produced an awesome sound from the exhaust and won 58 races.

I've searched and found this link to what the Hakosuka GTR sounds like and the race history of

this amazing car -

RB20 in the GTS-R (1987-1989) continued this awesome sound and is why most buy the GTS-R and

lightly mod it.

Here's what the GTS-R sounds like -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnKpNRZR-B0

R32 GTS-T (1989-1993) inherited the victory spec version of RB20DET from the GTS-R. The R32 GTS-T had bigger

brakes than GTS-R and better chassis, suspension setup but engine was detuned for road use.

For sound = RB20

For power = RB25, RB26, RB30

Since you like torque and are used to it, I would say R33 or R34 GTT with RB30 (3.0 litre bottomend).

Edited by SKYPER
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My old r32 gtst had basic mods and the factory Rb20 turbo and ran mid/low 13's. A friend was able to run a 12.9 with his.

Since you are 6ft+ Go the R33 , unless you bolt some GTR seats in you are going to struggle for comfort without slouching.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If Rb20 are so bad why is all the R33 and R34 rwd track cars are slower then my GTSt with a turbo upograde on an internally std engine. Is the RB25 a better motor? Hell yes. By the margin ppl make out? NO WAY.

You have to look at the whole picture to understand why an RB20 powered R32 can easily punch with an R33 RB25. First you have the weight, only small advantage, but its basically an extra passenger so is measurable.

But the main reason is the old two stroke style gearing. When R33 owners are grabbing 4th gear at abour 170km.h the R32 driver is grabbing 5th gear. The R32 has much shorter gearing, so everyone that is obsessed about response...well who cares, for a given road speed you have more revs on board so you are making boost and power. So dont get obsessed with rpm where it makes boost, thats why we have manual gearboxes and diff ratios, worry abou tthe road speed where it makes boost. And on that front....have a look at the comparison of

- My internally std RB20 running PFc and TD06-20G

- An R34 GTT with Poncams and GCG Hi FLow and PFc (same tuner and dyno as me)

- Another R34 GTT with Hi-Flow and i think this dyno sheet is on a fully built motor with cams. But lets just say its an internally std Neo sa the sheet could be an old one for the car.

gallery_462_50_14883.jpg

Either way, once you stop worrying about revs where you make power and consider road speed. Then the R32s slightly less weight and shorter gearing ensures you can still do the job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R33 for sure... RB20 engines are piss weak (if stock for stock) and they look hideous (excluding the GTR).

riiight....u think r33's look good??? haha yeh chek this beauty out...

1105_00.jpg

pffffft....

wat u want is one of these... :)

minor mods on an 32gtst get it moving fairly swiftly

32frontal.jpg

Edited by 32line
Link to comment
Share on other sites

r32 punches an r33? lol ive never read something so silly in my life.

stock for stock r32 is the slowest rubbish box in the world from factory theyre what? 7 secs 0-100?

theyre 15yo+ cars and they wish they could pull those numbers

the r33 is faster and its been proven millions of times.

do the exact same mods to each car and the r32 just gets left further behind

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didn't take you long did it Roy? Ha ha :)

I have to say owning the R32 gtst was a good experience. The beauty of the Rb20 is the low cost replacement meaning you can lean on them with little fear of financial backlash :laugh:

I think if your going to stay at or below 240rwkw the RB20 with the right turbo doesn't make a bad unit for a budget compromise, on standard internals.

Edited by rev210
Link to comment
Share on other sites

riiight....u think r33's look good??? haha yeh chek this beauty out...

1105_00.jpg

ROFL

u didnt choose the right color man, shooda been burgundy, lol

but seriously, the 33 s2 in black looks teh goodz

no1 should underestimate the 32 though, its physically smaller, lighter, and as above mentioned, shorter ratios

which means huge advantages on track

now to add a few huge generalisations to go with the flow

1. get a 32 for track

2. get a 33 for str8 line spammmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

:)

Edited by krogoth
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well there are some drawbacks with the stocker R32's despite the gearbox ratios the gearboxes are weak. Despite the weight saving the chassis stiffness needs a little more help and they are less aerodynamic. The brakes are also not as good.

Depending on what you do tho' those things may not actually matter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

r32 punches an r33? lol ive never read something so silly in my life.

stock for stock r32 is the slowest rubbish box in the world from factory theyre what? 7 secs 0-100?

theyre 15yo+ cars and they wish they could pull those numbers

the r33 is faster and its been proven millions of times.

do the exact same mods to each car and the r32 just gets left further behind

Ok then, if Aurace is in Vic, you are welcome to a drive of my car to help you form your own opinion. Best get some personal experience...its your dime, go with what you find to be right. If you find the right R32 GTSt you shoudl not dismiss it because it has an RB20. That said, find a nice R33 then you should grab it provided the premium $$$ over the R32 can justify it.

Bumblebee...care to come to Phillip Island on Anzac weekend and see if i can change your mind about RB20s :) If i spank your GTR then you have to wash my car in a bikini at the next club meeting....and vice versa :)t

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well there are some drawbacks with the stocker R32's despite the gearbox ratios the gearboxes are weak. Despite the weight saving the chassis stiffness needs a little more help and they are less aerodynamic. The brakes are also not as good.

Depending on what you do tho' those things may not actually matter.

Hey, they are weaker then other boxes. But they are by no means weak as in they break when you start the car. They are reasonably durable provided yo udrive with some care. Mine has +190,000kms on it, its on its 3rd clutch...god knows how many track days i have done in this car (possibly +75 in total, 8 years of track work, 3 years of motorkhanas, a few hill climbs, some runs at the drags where it has done a 12.9 @114mph, two Dutton Rallys)

You just need to respect the fact that they will break if abused....secret to getting a long life out of the box is good Castrol Syntrax 75W/90 . Cant beat it. But yes, unlike most other Skylines which are all but bullet proof in teh drivetrain, the RB20 box is the weakest of the breed. :wub:

Re oil starvation, i just give it an extra 500ml of oil so that when you are up it and some oil gets caught in the head, you still have plenty of oil in the sump. I have run an internally std engine since buying the car. I did spin a bottom end bearign on an engine, but that was only because whilst the car was at the mechanics the car was jacked from the sump and there was a massive dent put in the sump right where the pick up was...that and when they tuned it they didnt put Castrol Edge 10W60 but some Penszoil shit...so the recipe was there for trouble, cheap oil and damage to the sump. Was not happy with the service i got at that mechanics :D

As for daily driver going to the track,

Car 36 -18th And that was with me udner the weather lapping 2 seconds of what i can comfortably do.

Car 36-15th

Thats in a GTSt with a turbo upgrade and basic suspension mods.

LOL, not saying RB20s are the best, they are actually the worst of the twin cams RBs for making power. But they can still get great, reliable results to the point that their use need not be a handicap. But a benefit in that you get to spend the money in areas that actually make the car far quicker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • Yeah, so try to post images with extensions that the internet can handle, not HEIC files which only arstyphones can handle.
    • I have two questions here, The first is regarding the harness attached to the power window and central locking control on the drivers door. I can't understand why the previous owner would join these wires together on the harness and why they did such a shit job. There was a wire with 10v hanging in the open un insulated. The OEM remote control works just fine The second is regarding the blue, green wire attached to what I believe is the lock actuator? These were running to the old immobiliser connected to the 'UNLOCK - COM' and 'LOCK - COM' wires. I imagine COM means communication and they just send a signal to the immobiliser whether the car is locked/unlocked?  IMG_9032.HEIC IMG_9037.HEIC IMG_9038.HEIC IMG_9041.HEIC  
    • A name I haven't seen in a while, welcome back. Nothing much has changed, we are all still deluded Nissan owners.
×
×
  • Create New...