Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-t Vs R33 Gts-t


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 165
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

R32 gtst slow aye? i dont think so, all thats done to my 32 is exhaust, fmic 12psi and adjusty cam gears... and im neck and neck with standard xr6t utes and thats off the line aswell... (have raced both manual and auto xr6ts same result) my mates r32 gtst with exact same mods as mine also pulls neck and neck with them... it was a real surprise because i thought i would get left behind... the only one that beat me had an exhaust+screamer and pulled a qtr of a car length so still not that great... dont be too quick to bag out the old rb20 :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

roy is it?

thats quite surprising u can go around a track alot faster then Matts car, especially it being internally standard....quite curious do u mind directing me to some more in depth specs of your car? it cant be pushing more then 250rwkw......or is it?

Its got Tein RA coil overs, Sydneykid swaybars, a full TD06 setup with PFc and GTR injectors. Bracket so that i can run 324mm brakes with the std caliper, and HKS intercooler and exhaust. Thats about it, all from an internally std RB20 that at 16psi makes 234rwkws and at 19psi makes 260rwkws.

but come on roy.....be honest here.....you really think the rb20 is any better then its successors?

In regards i think it is better. They are cheap to replace. They are possibly the strongest of any factory RB, and they are not a headache with rego unlike if i had done an engine transplant. The trade off is they need more boost and revs to make the same power as the bigger RBs, but from a certain point they will never make the same power

you might be able to beat rays s15 or matts r34....but if i gave u a r33 or a r34.....im sure ull be even better.

They are heavier and the pistons in the Rb25 dont take the boost and detonation that the std RB20 does, and the RB25 has weaker rods. R34s are about the same weight as R32GTRs :thumbsup: So i doubt the same mods as i have done would make the bigger cars quicker. As they would require more power, which means more cooling, more suspension mods and more brake mods. So not really, but if done smartly the cars shoudl be quicker all things beign equal. Though they never are :)

but its proberly the only 1 out of a million that might be worthy of praise......

have u ever considered droppn a rb25 into your car at all?

okai okai......maybe its not as "rubbish" as wat others or myself make it out to be. but its defiently not as good as the 25

My point all along is not that they are better, but they can give great results so should not be the reason to steer clear of a particular car. They have their merits and of course shortcomings.

I have said it before., people that put RB25s in their R32s are the same people that would sleep with their wife's friends. At least with an Rb26 you can use the excuse that she was hot!

So no, never considered putting a std RB25 in my car, RB26 or hybrid engines yes. And i am not the only guy getting good results out of a std RB20. There is a guy in Perth running 12.00 flat and 290rwkws with a std RB20. one in Sydbey making 280rwkws before the car was pranged. Just because us R32 owners are cheap bastards and rarely put a turbo, good ecu and injectors on a car....doesnt mean the car doesnt respond to mods when the few that bother actually do

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hahah this thread can go forever.

but my biased opinion says R32 definetly, its a real nice looking car and can reach 200kw with just turbo, cooler, exhaust and decent tune. for a daily much more than 200kw becomes a hassle.

i think the 32 is best because 1) i own one and 2) the way it makes u feel when u drive it, even tho it lacks down low power the engine its quite agressive when u get the revs going and can feels good to chuck around.

lol theres my 2 cents.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R32 gtst slow aye? i dont think so, all thats done to my 32 is exhaust, fmic 12psi and adjusty cam gears... and im neck and neck with standard xr6t utes and thats off the line aswell... (have raced both manual and auto xr6ts same result) my mates r32 gtst with exact same mods as mine also pulls neck and neck with them... it was a real surprise because i thought i would get left behind... the only one that beat me had an exhaust+screamer and pulled a qtr of a car length so still not that great... dont be too quick to bag out the old rb20 :thumbsup:

very well said...one good thing about the 32s is that quite a lot have had turbo swaps while in japan..I know mine had a 2510 on it with HKS front mount when I first picked it up...Changed the exhaust later on and yes it was poor below 3000 rpm...but over 3000 it hauled...I had a couple of runs with XR6T's lower revs I was a bit off, higher revs....they struggled to stay with me...at 16 psi it really got moving...No they are not as good as an RB25 but if you are doing trackwork then I would still go the RB20...look at replacement engine costs RB20 vs RB25.....Not just that but I am led to believe the RB20 computer is a bit more flexible when performing mods...they make great cheap thrashers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

r32 punches an r33? lol ive never read something so silly in my life.

stock for stock r32 is the slowest rubbish box in the world from factory theyre what? 7 secs 0-100?

theyre 15yo+ cars and they wish they could pull those numbers

the r33 is faster and its been proven millions of times.

do the exact same mods to each car and the r32 just gets left further behind

exact same mods to a 32 and 33, and the 32 is slower? geee, reallly?????! derrr! dont hav to be a fregin scientist to firgure that one out.

evryone knows stock for stock the 33 is faster...and if u mod them in the same way ofcouse the 33 will be faster..

my 32gtst has only a few minor mods (exhaust,fmic,11psi,ecu remap) and it will get to 100 in mid 5's on crappy rear tyres...

so u may hav to mod the 32 a lil more...pfft, who cares, atleast ur in a car that looks better than the thousands of boat 33's drivin around...i see them every single day...ugly as hell itself.

they dont even get a second look, 33's just blend into the b/ground like commodores.

if u want sumthin special a nice clean 32 is the way :thumbsup:

my32_atAces_2_small.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My R32 just has front mount, exhaust and 12psi and I've raced plenty of r33's (unknown mods) and beaten them all.

The engine's are great in R33's but the car itself fails. Put an RB25 into an R32 ftw.

R33's are ugly as too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My R32 just has front mount, exhaust and 12psi and I've raced plenty of r33's (unknown mods) and beaten them all.

The engine's are great in R33's but the car itself fails. Put an RB25 into an R32 ftw.

R33's series 1's are ugly as too.

fixed it for u

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's for everyday driving, and you are concerned about dropping down in power/torque too far then get the R33. The torque spread is far superior and you don't have to work as hard to make the car go. It's very flexible across the whole rev range. The interior is much nicer & generally has less wear and tear due to them being newer. If you can get your hands on a nice R33 series II you won't be disappointed.

Personally, I drove both and didn't like the lack of bottom end torque in the R32 and outdated interior. R32s can look nice, but so can most cars with the right bodykit.

Stock for stock the R33 series II performs better, has nicer interior, looks better (imo), has more potential, is a better daily and is more solid. If you are largely debating whether to get one over the other based on fuel consumption, suprisingly the fuel efficiency difference is not the largest of margins.

I'm not bagging out the R32s or RB20 for that matter. They are great cars. But just wanted to point out that every new generation has had extensive R&D performed by the manufacturer to be better than the last model/s. Just as the R34 is better than the R33. The more opinions, the more of an informed choice you can make. GL :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont S2 R33s have that tacky clith interior? They do look nicer then the S1 though. And the interior, just like the exterior is very much a matter of taste as the R33 is too Camry for me. Then again teh R32 is very VN Commodore :D

The big thing with R33s is if you look at 10, 8 will be in good condition. With R32s the number will be more like 3 out of 10 ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fixed it for u

agreed

Dont S2 R33s have that tacky clith interior? They do look nicer then the S1 though. And the interior, just like the exterior is very much a matter of taste as the R33 is too Camry for me. Then again teh R32 is very VN Commodore :D

The big thing with R33s is if you look at 10, 8 will be in good condition. With R32s the number will be more like 3 out of 10 ;)

i actually prefer the series one trim. exterior wise, s2 all the wai

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think the style of the seats in all the Skylines through the generations (bar GTRs) are anything to rave about. But it is pretty easy to change the seats if it bothers you. Much harder to change everything else though.

I haven't heard the R33/Camry analogy before. I don't see it? :D I'd imagine there would be a lot of wannabe Skyline owners putting wings and kits on their Camrys if that was the case.

Both are good cars, but the R32 is a little too Vanilla Ice for me. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Then again teh R32 is very VN Commodore ;)

:laughing-smiley-014: nice call.

I dont know whether that makes them better or worse than an s1 r33 camry though........

This tread seems to be going no where fast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my opinion of the R32 is: R32 with RB25DET > *

you got the style, looks and power out of a small comfortable car.

even the RB20 with stock internals, decent turbo, cams, injectors and computer will set you up nicely.

on the other hand, my opinion of the R33:

r33_boat.jpg

that is all. ;)

Edited by dmr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • Yeah, so try to post images with extensions that the internet can handle, not HEIC files which only arstyphones can handle.
×
×
  • Create New...