Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

lcd leds or just a rear leds (button leds) ??

No I dont have but im pretty sure its somewhere on sau unless u talking bout lcd led

try this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...l&hl=666dan

Edited by naomy
Damn its actually a wedge bulb type fitment for you?

The R34 GTT one is some weird looking bulb+base in one. I have attached a pic.

Haha dude Ive fitted it MANY MANY times, aircon LCD, aircon buttons, dash, triple meter, cigarette lighter, everything except for the ignition.

You cant pull that bulb off the white base, trust me I tried, its not a wedge type design.

And the glass bulb is pretty small, T5 sized almost

Im pretty sure they are T5 or T10 wedges, at least mine arent.

You're right nuffsaid.. it is a bulb in base design. So no wedge.

I had a look at mine, tried to pull it off to no avail. So what i did was smash the globe (harsh I know), and then wired the feet of the led directly onto the base. A bit of stuffing around I know. But it looks trick.

wish i took photos mate.. but i'll try to describe it as well as i can.

1. Following instructions in the first post, remove the steering column cover.

2. Twist to remove the bulb holder.

3. Using a pair of pliers remove/break the bulb.

4. Remove the bulb filament with the pliers, you should then see two holes.

5. Take your blue led bulb, and straighten the legs (two wires + & -) out on it.

6. Chop off the legs to make them shorter.

7. Reinsert. The Dan666 T5s supplied ones just fit the bulb holder, so once squeezed in they should be a really tight fit and unlikely to come out.

8. Test and then reassemble column cover.

Having said the above, I wouldn't really recommend doing it this way and a new wedge bulb holder type holder is definately the more reliable way to go.. so do the above at your own risk. Although it's just a led light, you do really end up destroying the bulb/holder in one thing by performing this mod.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...