Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All. As I work on getting my new addition (R33) up to where I'd like..

Thought I would share some costs of things for comment and possible better bargains around the traps....but I am always about quality not price

(please excuse my very technical language. not)

Ozzy tyres $2k - four Koing "unknown" black n silver rims + Kuhmo (?) tyres

Audiotech - 300 ish for a "beauty Board" in the boot (to make the 2 amps stand vertical, hidden cables only seeing the face of the amps, in front of the battery etc)

Audiotech - 300 ish for a fibreglass side box for the 12" sub to sit on the side of the boot so I don't lose all that boot space

Unique Auto (syd) $130ish engine clean and detail

JAX tyres - 1499 for a set of 18" Speedy Black rims and "unknown tyres"

Tempe Tyres - 1500 for a set of 18" Lenso rims and "unknown tyres"

Mitchell Tune (Heavily Mod engine) 750+ (Ball park)

Fyshwick tune (Heavily Mod engine) 850 to 1k + (Ball park)

Interior trim - 2 quotes to come ( New dash due to previous owners display) + possible leather trim door options + possible coloured dash.

NewGel - $1800 ish to pull off, fix cracks and scrapes, re-spray all body kit components including new colour mesh over front mount then re-mount

Red LED Parkers 18

Phillips H1 Lights (cost anyone)

Skyline boot light - $300 Red

Brake spray - $15 to $30 Gold (haha..the paint to do your brake pads)

Momo Steering wheel re leather - Price unknown (It’s blue, I need it to be Black or Red)

Momo Leather gear boot - $60

Momo Leather Hand Brake cover $50

Momo racing pedals (set of 3) - $95

Momo floor matts $190

Momo racing harness (seat belts) x2 200 each.

Set of 3 - Apexi / Sabre / Stri Gauges - Can anyone recommend other brands, not to fussy

Edited by Cpt. Rock
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214983-fyi-the-cost-of-things/
Share on other sites

I'm one of these research and evaluation freaks before I buy. So no nothing bought yet, only info after a few yarns.

why dont you shop for some second hand Volks of the forum, for around 2k you get some sweet wheels!! Ok, why Volks ? (Remember totaly new to this stuff :laugh: )

Ok Supafly - hit me up with a piccy of the wheels and details and we can rap..., same with you Towlie (is the term "PM me" ?) or should I jump over to the fore sale site. Thanx

Edited by Cpt. Rock

Rays Volks! cause there hot and they are very very well made, un like a lot of other rims that you will get from cheap places, volks can be repaired if they are buckled or chipped with ease. They are also light weight too. Who was the mitchel tune though... Trojan???

Edited by race_snooze

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...