Jump to content
SAU Community

Please Help - Gtr 02 Sensor Wiring

hazerb30

By hazerb30,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

hazerb30 Collaborator

hazerb30

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. Im changing my o2 sensors (car is R32 GTR) while ive got the dumps off. The original sensors rattled when i shook them which is a pretty sure sign they are busted. They have done 130'000 ks anyway

So i bought the NTK replacements. Its a bit confusing getting replacements for the GTR so heres the info.

Part number is OTD2F-P1P.

This is a direct replacement for the stock 32 gtr sensors. They look exactly the same as the original nissan ones and i wouldnt be suprised if nissan sourced them from NTK. I paid $150 each for these through Auto One in W.A.

BUT.. you must change the plug on the end of one of the sensors. Its as easy as getting a jewellers flat blade screwdriver and popping all 3 wires and pins out of the new plug and pushing them into the original plug from the old o2 sensor.

Trouble is.. I forgot which wire went where because i pulled them all out at once :P

Does someone have some old sensors laying around and could confirm for me. The photo with the wires out the back is my best guess as to how they went.

hope these photos work

post-7752-1208239570_thumb.jpg

post-7752-1208239581_thumb.jpg

post-7752-1208239589_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215005-please-help-gtr-02-sensor-wiring/
Share on other sites
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Will when i get home

EDIT:

Dood, I have failed you. Going out to Datsun, I seemed to have cut the plugs wires from the sensor, and cant find the plug :(

Have you gone through the workshop manual? I'm going through it now...

Edited by GeeTR
hazerb30 Collaborator

hazerb30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers GeeTR. Yeh ive been through the manual and it doesnt show the wiring :laugh:

I was hoping the wiring loom on the car was color coded to match but its not the case.

godzl1975 - is there somewhere in that thread that has the wiring ? I went through it and couldnt see it.

really appreciate anyone who can have a look at the wiring on theirs for me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeetus
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • GTSBoy
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • GTSBoy
      r34 starting problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...