Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so i finally got sick of the skyline coils and set up a wasted spark conversion using the 3.8 buick coil pack(new) and bocsh ignition leads(new) on my recently rebuilt Rb30det GTs4.

one advantage to this is now i can use a timing light to check the timing.

the disadvantage now is that when i have the timing light on the number one is firing about 10 millimeters past the last mark on the harmonic balancer.

or around 32-35 degrees past where it should be...

ive tried resetting the ecu, tinkering with the cas(but it limited to how far it can turn).

i even took the cam belt of and advanced the exhaust cam by three teeth to compensate for the retarded timing but to no avail. it still runs like dogs balls.

any help would be apprieciated, i'd hate to think i have to go back to the individual direct fire set up...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215013-rb30det-with-wasted-spark/
Share on other sites

Have you checked that the harmonic balancer hasnt spun?? thats usually the cause of timing marks way around from point.

also you can check timing with light on a indiviual coil setup there is a wire loop up near the back of motor you put the clip on

Have you checked that the harmonic balancer hasnt spun?? thats usually the cause of timing marks way around from point.

also you can check timing with light on a indiviual coil setup there is a wire loop up near the back of motor you put the clip on

yeah i realize that, and no it hasn't spun the mechanical timing is fine.

its just the electronic side of it.

i undid the three bolts and turned the it around till the light it the marks and it runs fine as revs fine as.

only problem is its that far around ya cant bolt it back on.

double reading is correct how ever

nethier 1 or six, or any of the light pulses land where the should when the should.

when the CAS is bolted in place.

it would read like it was running twelve cylinders, each cylinder fires twice per revolution rather than the direct fires one.

had some success. pulled out the spark plugs and gapped them to .8 of a mill.

brought the timing back a bit but still not enough.

Changing the plug gap wont make any difference to the timing, and wasted spark will still run the same timing. Its in the conversion to wasted spark where you have got the problem, what ignition module/igniter are you running? Souds like you have it triggering off the leading edge of the pulse instead of the trailing.

Changing the plug gap wont make any difference to the timing, and wasted spark will still run the same timing. Its in the conversion to wasted spark where you have got the problem, what ignition module/igniter are you running? Souds like you have it triggering off the leading edge of the pulse instead of the trailing.

helilujah. its a new coil pack and leads that would normally go on a 3.8 litre vt holden vommodore.

the question is how do i get it firing from trailing edge?

oh its running my old hks f con pro, r32 igniter gtr 6 speed box, gtr intake 90 ml throttle body , custom exhaust manifold garrett 35/40 teal 40ml waste gate hks step 2 cams bocsh 740cc injectors, in a 92 gts4 shell. just stuff i had lay'n around

after i bought my god

Edited by nizmonut

Make sure the igniter is earthed properly (bolted down, maybe with a proper earth wire connected also), I've heard of them severely retarding if not earthed properly.

To move the timing to where it wont bolt, you need to take the CAS off, turn it as far as you need then put it back on

helilujah. its a new coil pack and leads that would normally go on a 3.8 litre vt holden vommodore.

the question is how do i get it firing from trailing edge?

oh its running my old hks f con pro, r32 igniter gtr 6 speed box, gtr intake 90 ml throttle body , custom exhaust manifold garrett 35/40 teal 40ml waste gate hks step 2 cams bocsh 740cc injectors, in a 92 gts4 shell. just stuff i had lay'n around

after i bought my god

ok. so was the car running fine before you did the wasted spark modification? or does the car still run ok but you are getting a funny reading?

to change weather it fires from a leading edge to a falling edge is in the ecu setup, and it all depends on the cas disc you are using, some are leading edge discs and some are falling edge cas discs, i believe the standard RB ones are falling edge.

got it sussed out, talked to the local auto sparky about it and he gave me a diode to solder in between

what would have been number one trigger wire and number six trigger wire.

so the sensor wire that ran from number one coil on the original setup to the ecu is still connected with

it s number one cylinder trigger wire,

but before it joins the number six trigger wire on there way to the shared coil the diode has been installed to stop the pulse from number six from upsetting the signal....to the ecu......

ya'll understand that

Number one trigger wire from igniter>>>>>sensor wire joins>>>>>>diode installed here>>>>>Number six trigger wire joins from igniter>>>>>>>both join coil

thats the best i can explain it with out pulling the online colins world dictionary.

  • 7 months later...

THE DIODE IS STOPPING ANY FEED BACK DOWN THE OTHER ECU SIGNAL WIRE! YES SIMPLE FIX. GOOD THOU.. IM BUILDING A BRAND NEW IGNITOR PACK FOR ALL S2 MOTORS

got it sussed out, talked to the local auto sparky about it and he gave me a diode to solder in between

what would have been number one trigger wire and number six trigger wire.

so the sensor wire that ran from number one coil on the original setup to the ecu is still connected with

it s number one cylinder trigger wire,

but before it joins the number six trigger wire on there way to the shared coil the diode has been installed to stop the pulse from number six from upsetting the signal....to the ecu......

ya'll understand that

Number one trigger wire from igniter>>>>>sensor wire joins>>>>>>diode installed here>>>>>Number six trigger wire joins from igniter>>>>>>>both join coil

thats the best i can explain it with out pulling the online colins world dictionary.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
    • I actually have an aftermarket hanger, the detschwerks x1 hanger, but my dw420 has never really sat in it correctly, good to know I can just modify it a bit to suit. Yeah cheers man will definitely have a play with it and hope it solves my dramas.
×
×
  • Create New...