Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive been thinking and heard alot of good things about puting a r33 RB25DE or T on my RB30ET block and selling my intake and exhaust manifolds 4 rb25 items.

Ive been doing alot of searching and reading about it on here and on the skyline forums.

Is it possible to have the RB25 head shaven to bring compression up to 8.5:1 on my standard rb30et block ?? (I no i could use the NA block but dont really wanna pull motor out as its fairly fresh).

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215102-rb3025-question/
Share on other sites

RB30E I heard is the better option. The block I used was a N/A block that had done around 400,000klms :P , machined up and did the job perfectly. I'm not sure of compression ratio though, but wasn't too high or low took lots of boost without detonating or troubles we guess-timated around 8.5:1. Plus they are initially cheap to buy.

Edited by nismomiles33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215102-rb3025-question/#findComment-3820808
Share on other sites

why raise the compression.....just stick a big turbo on it and go for 10 second qautermiles,

young fella here n nz has done exactley that. twin cam turbo head on his auto vl commie, changed the loom n ecu, fitted and front mount, stucks sum 265's on the rear, wound the boost up to 14 psi and ran a 10.4 on his first run.

my first conversion was a rb30/R33 25de striaght swap, the only new thing i bought was a head gasket and head bolts ...the only work done to it was to face it and weld up the oil gallery to the hydralic lifters. stuck it straight on, bolted on a idleler pulley for the cam belt and reassembled it.

i then drilled and tapped a qauter inch fitting into the intake side of the head back into the gallery that had been welded up, fitted a brass t piece behind the oil pressure sensor and connected the two with a hose. ran 13.2 exactly as described above, no extra go fast bits or engine work done.

the way to do it would be use your et block a na twin cam head and then turbo it.

Edited by nizmonut
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215102-rb3025-question/#findComment-3821543
Share on other sites

why raise the compression.....

Because the car will drive like a piece of shit with compression that low (30ET + 25/26 head)

Mate I think your best option is to sell your current package and buy a RB30E, or rebuild with correct compression pistons.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215102-rb3025-question/#findComment-3821640
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for all the responces,

I have kinda Been going through the 300+ page thread for info.

Thanks for the pdf doc f*kin unreal..... exactly what i was after :down: (Legend the person that wrote it)

Ive just got and bought a rb30e block from the wreaks for 100 bucks :P lol started to strip it down last night but mates came around.....

Im gunna use standard rods but give them a polish maybe send them away for shotpeening??

I also donno wether to do Forged pistions or us NA standard pistons (over size if the bore needs machining)

Ive heared alot of people dont bother about using the piston oil squirters from the rb25 block? R they really that nessecery?

Sounds tricky and im gunna be doing the full build myself in my old mans smash repair shed.

Also will be using standard rb25de head with heavy duty valve springs.

I would like between 300rwkw maybe a little more but i want fast spool for the street. was thinking of using a hypergear TR44

they seem like a decent budget turbo made and balanced in Melbourne Australia.

Edited by mr30_2.4e
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215102-rb3025-question/#findComment-3822761
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
    • I have a r34 sedan 1999 manual converted need some help with my speedometer it only reads upto 98km and then stops currently still running the auto cluster any easy fixes no speedo drive is connected yet, if someone has a video for wiring up the manual speedo sensor with the auto cluster please send through 
×
×
  • Create New...